A well-groomed beard isn’t just for show — it can also accentuate your face shape and help you stand apart as a trendsetter. But maintaining a sharp neckline and cheek line requires patience and careful attention.
Start with a longer guard length on your clippers, then gradually shorten them to achieve the desired look. Always trim against the grain to maintain consistency.
Neckline
A beard’s neckline and cheek line define its shape, and a well-defined one can truly elevate the look of a man’s face. It also requires proper attention and maintenance to keep it looking sharp and intentional. Fortunately, a good barber can help with both, providing valuable advice on how to maintain a clean and defined neckline and cheek line between professional trims.
As with all haircuts, the first step is a consultation to establish the desired look. During the consultation, the client should tell their barber about the size, thickness, and length of their beard and neckline, as well as any skin issues or sensitivities they may have.
After the consultation, the barber should begin with a beard wash to remove dirt and product buildup. After the beard is washed, it’s important to comb it out to ensure that the hairs are evenly distributed. This will also help to prevent tangles, making it easier to comb when it’s time to trim.
When it comes to the neckline, a soft curve is recommended over a sharp line. To create this, the barber should use the Adam’s apple as a guide, placing two fingers above the center of the throat to establish the line where they’ll shave off hair. From there, the barber should make a u-shaped cut around the ears, shaving everything below this point to create a natural-looking and well-maintained neckline.
To trim the hair at the base of the neck, the barber should start with a high guard—a three or higher—and gradually lower it until they reach the desired length. Then, they should shave the neckline using the grain—in the direction that the hair is growing—to avoid creating a fade that’s too drastic and to create a smooth transition from longer to shorter hairs.
Lastly, the barber should finish by combing out the neckline and cheeks to remove any stray hairs that may have been missed during the trimming process. They should then finish up with a neck massage to ensure the client is comfortable and satisfied with their work. The end result should be a well-maintained neckline and cheek line that’s perfectly tailored to the client’s facial shape, beard style, and personal preference.
Facial Hair
While it may seem that a beard is less important than a haircut, a great looking beard takes just as much care. Facial hair can add a lot to a man’s look but can also come off as unruly and scruffy if it isn’t shaped correctly. There are a number of beard shapes to suit all tastes, and the key is to find one that flatters your face shape. A well-trained barber can help you achieve a beard that complements your facial features and style.
If you’re new to growing a beard, it may take some time for you to become familiar with your natural length and shape. You’ll want to trim and comb your beard often to keep it in top shape, but don’t go too crazy. A little bit of a mistake here and there is to be expected; it’s all part of the learning process. Luckily, mistakes can be easily fixed with a bit of extra trimming or combing. However, for the best results, it’s a good idea to have your beard professionally trimmed and shaped at least once or twice a month. If you want a versatile grooming solution, investing in a trimmer clipper set ensures precision and convenience for all your styling needs.
Unlike the neckline, where you should work with the curve of your Adam’s apple, the cheek lines should be worked with in order to create a naturally-looking fade. Rather than cutting straight across the cheeks, your barber should work in a diagonal and side-to-side pattern with the clippers to create a subtle fade that’s not too harsh or overdone.
When it comes to the bottom of the beard, Rietveld recommends placing two fingers above your Adam’s apple and drawing an imaginary U shape on each side going up to your ear. This helps to create a symmetrical neckline and gives the appearance of a more natural and rounded shape.
For the rest of the beard, you should always be sure to trim with the grain. Cutting against the grain causes the hairs to stand up and create a more drastic fade that’s not appropriate for the cheeks. Ensure that the moustache is properly blended into the beard as well (see Beard and Moustache Design Procedure) before putting the finishing touches on your client’s beard.
Sideburns
When it comes to trimming your beard, it’s important to know what you’re doing. Not only will this help you look your best, but it’ll also ensure that your beard stays healthy and maintains its shape between professional trims.
One of the most crucial steps in this process is to define your neckline and cheek line, which can elevate your overall look. To do so, stand in front of a mirror and place two fingers above your Adam’s apple to establish your trimming line; anything below this line should be trimmed away. This will ensure a clean boundary between your beard and face, creating a sharp contrast that enhances volume and structure.
After establishing your neckline, the next step is to fade the sides of your beard. The same technique as you would use on your head should be applied to the beard, which involves a gradual blending of longer and shorter hairs to create a seamless transition. To do so, start with the highest guard on your clippers and work your way down to the lowest, explains barber Josh Periera. This will help prevent your beard from looking like a bowl cut or a boxy, unnatural shape.
Once you’ve finished with the sideburns, comb the top of the facial hair to remove any stray hairs and make sure that it’s symmetrical before moving on to the cheek area. If the client wants a goatee or moustache, you’ll need to work that into the beard design as well.
Once the outline of the beard has been defined, take a step back to assess the overall appearance and balance of the proportions. If needed, make further adjustments to the beard style and outline before finishing up by trimming and blending the moustache and ensuring that it’s in line with the beard.
A well-groomed beard is more than just a fashion statement; it can actually accentuate your face’s natural features, boost confidence, and set you apart as a trendsetter. And while a great beard takes patience and practice, learning the proper grooming techniques can save you time, money, and trips to the barbershop.
Cheeks
A well-defined neckline and cheek line can elevate the overall look of any beard. The trick, however, is to know where to draw the line and not cross it. Too much hair in this area can give a man a chinstrap or beardless, scruffy look, while too little can make men appear rugged and tough. It’s a delicate balance that requires patience and attention to detail, says Rietveld.
Before trimming any facial hair, always wash the client’s face to eliminate any dirt or grit and provide a smooth base for assessing and executing the desired design. Then, comb out the beard with a wide-tooth comb to detangle and delineate the natural shape of the hair before trimming. “This will ensure a more productive and realistic starting point that better resembles what the client normally looks like,” Kafando notes.
For the neckline, he recommends imagining a U-shaped line from each side of the ears and crossing about 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) above the Adam’s apple. This will establish the beard’s line of separation and anything below that should be trimmed away, he adds. It’s important to keep in mind, however, that this is a personal choice and should complement the man’s unique face shape and desired style rather than be dictated by some predetermined standard.
The same goes for the cheek lines: “You don’t want to go too low with this because it’ll look unnatural,” Rietveld explains, but a well-defined and proportional cheek line is not only aesthetically pleasing, but can also help add a sense of structure to the entire face.
After completing the neckline and cheek lines, finish by comb-over-comb trimming the overall length of the beard to connect the outline with the general density and shape of the hair in the chin area. “This will also provide the client with a more polished, finished look,” Kafando says. Afterwards, treat the beard to a generous application of beard oil or balm to moisturize the facial hair and promote healthy growth in the future. Finally, place the client back in an upright sitting position to assess and verify that the beard has been shaped to the client’s satisfaction.