1) 7 pm Princess of Shoreditch, (formerly Princess Royal), 76-8 Paul Street, Shoreditch, EC2A 4NE. If you are coming from Old Street Station you need to use Exit 3. This former Whitbread pub has recently been refurbished but retains some original glazing.

Meantime Pale Ale, Sambrook's Wandle and Tring Side Pocket for a Toad are usually available here. Leave the pub by the Willow Street exit, turn left and walk down Willow Street to the junction with Leonard Street. Cross over Willow Street and Leonard Street to

2) 7.45 pm Griffin, 93 Leonard Street, Shoreditch, EC2. This pub is on the London Regional Inventory where the description is as follows: "The Griffin we have today is two buildings knocked into one pub. The older part stretches down Ravey Street and has some typical detailing of about 1870. The later part, on the corner, has some distinctive tiled panels and must date from later in the 19th century. Then, between the wars, along came the brown tile refacing of all the ground-floor walls by Meux's Brewery to promote their wares (they brewed on the site of the Dominion Theatre, Tottenham Court Road till 1921, then moved to Nine Elms where brewing ceased in 1964). All the internal partitioning has gone but the Victorian counter remains, as does the matchboard panelling that covers the ceiling. But the feature of most interest is the back fitting behind the bar with a series of unusual, highly ornamented wooden columns, a number of original mirrors and a fancy cornice above."

Fuller's London Pride and a guest beer are usually served here. Turn left out of the pub and continue along Leonard Street to the junction with Great Eastern Street. Cross over Great Eastern Street to Curtain Road and walk up Curtain Road to the junction with Old Street. Turn right and walk along Old Street to the junction with Kingsland Road and Hackney Road. Cross over the junction to Hackney Road and walk along Hackney Road to the pedestrian crossing. Up on your left is a pub called Ye Olde Axe, 69 Hackney Road, a striptease pub charging £4 entry and serving Courage Best. You are welcome to visit it if you don't mind paying the entry charge. The pub has an imposing 19th-century exterior and inside it boasts a fine ceiling, friezes and a barrel-vaulted possible former corridor down one side. Cross over Hackney Road to Columbia Road and walk along Columbia Road, noting the site of the former Columbia Market, the only remnants of which are the railings and the gate piers topped by heraldic beasts. Continue along Columbia Road to

3) 8.45 pm Royal Oak, 73 Columbia Road, Bethnal Green, E2. Although neither a listed building nor on the London Regional Inventory, this is a striking inter-war Trumans pub with Dutch gables and prominent name panel on the corner. Despite having been opened up inside, it retains some fine wooden panelling typical of Trumans style, complete with the names of the beers formerly on offer.

Meantime London Pale Ale and Timothy Taylor Landlord are usually available here. Turn left out of the pub, cross over Columbia Road and continue along Columbia Road to the junction with Barnet Grove. Turn right into Barnet Grove and walk all the way along it to Bethnal Green Road. Cross over Bethnal Green Road and walk all the way down St Matthew's Row to

4) 9.30 pm Carpenters Arms, 73 Cheshire Street, Bethnal Green, E2. Like the Royal Oak, this pub is neither a listed building nor on the London Regional Inventory. However, it does retain separate rooms.

Timothy Taylor Landlord and a guest beer are usually served here. On leaving the pub, cross over Cheshire Street, turn right and walk along Cheshire Street to the junction with Brick Lane. Turn left into Brick Lane and walk along it, noting the former Trumans Brewery on the way. Cross over Brick Lane and continue along it to the junction with Hanbury Street. Turn right into Hanbury Street and walk along it to just before the junction with Commercial Street. Cross over Hanbury Street to

5) 10.15 pm Golden Heart, 110 Commercial Street, Spitalfields, E1. Although this pub is not a listed building, it is on the London Regional Inventory where the description is as follows: "A good, relaxed place to soak up the atmosphere of a typical inter-war pub. The Golden Heart has an elegant, three-sided neo-Georgian frontage facing Spitalfields Market. It was built by the major local brewers, Truman, Hanbury and Buxton, on a corner site around 1930 and is just a few yards away from the company's very different Ten Bells. This pub has two bars either side of a central servery but a blocked doorway in the centre indicates how the larger bar on the right is an amalgamation of two original rooms. This enlarged public bar is rather plainer than the other one but both have extensive panelling, brick fireplaces (note the Truman's eagle over a couple in the public bar) and Truman's house-style lettering for the advertising inscriptions running along the top of the panelling. Note the pleasing dimpled and coloured glass in the windows. None of this is showy and represents one of the two main faces of inter-war pub-building - the careful, restrained Georgian one as opposed to nostalgic brewers' Tudor. The one real blemish is the modern pot-shelf on the public bar counter.

History round about: Spitalfields Market was established in 1682 to deal especially in vegetables. The present buildings were put up by the Corporation of London and opened in 1928 as a fruit and veg. market with special heated cellars for ripening bananas. The area has an intensely rich cultural history and has seen waves of immigrants who brought distinctive trades and traditions with them - the Huguenots, expelled from France in 1685, Jews in the 19th century and Bangladeshis (of Brick Lane fame) in the 20th. The current licensee, Sandra Esquilant, is of Huguenot descent."

Adnams Bitter and Broadside are available here. After this pub you may wish to visit the nearby Ten Bells, 84 Commercial Street, also on the Regional Inventory where the description is as follows: "A four-storey corner pub right opposite the magnificent Christ Church, Spitalfields, and Spitalfields Market. The outside could do with a little sprucing up but at least it retains the insignia of the former owners, the major brewers, Truman, Hanbury and Buxton who operated from Brick Lane nearby. The interior has been gutted to make a smart bar but the pub is included here for its first-rate wall tiling of around 1900. On the left, just inside what would have been an entrance corridor, is a tiled mural entitled 'Spitalfields in ye Olden Time - Visiting a Weaver's Shop'. Here we have a prosperous-looking lady and gent (complete with young black servant) surrounded by deferential locals, inspecting a piece of cloth. Spitalfields was a centre of the silk-weaving industry established by Huguenots. The mural is signed 'W. B. Simpson & Sons. 100. S. Martins Lane. LONDON'. Simpson's were responsible for a great many tiling schemes in pubs a century or so ago. Otherwise there are large tiled panels with swirling blue and white Arabesque decoration.

History across the road: Over the road from the pub is the towering presence of Christ Church, Spitalfields, one of the great churches of the 18th or, indeed, any century. The magnificent and highly individual design was by Nicholas Hawksmoor and the church was put up it 1714-29."

The Regional Inventory descriptions in these notes are extracts from a book published in July 2008 by CAMRA called London Heritage Pubs: An Inside Story. Historic Pub Interiors in the Capital by Geoff Brandwood and Jane Jephcote. The book has descriptions and photographs of all 156 pubs currently on the London Regional Inventory.

1) 12 noon Coborn Arms, 6-10 Coborn Road, Bow, E3 2DA. This former Whitbread pub was acquired by Youngs in 1984 along with the property next door. The pub's name is taken from Mrs Priscilla Coborn who left funding in her will for the poor in Bow. Originally it was a Lacon Brewery pub.

Youngs Bitter, Special and Kew Gold are available here. Turn right out of the pub, cross over Coborn Road and continue along Coborn Road to the junction with Morgan Street. Cross over Morgan Street to

2) 12.30 pm Morgan Arms, 43 Morgan Street, Bow, E3. Although this pub has a modernised interior, it has an impressive wooden gantry with stained glass inserts.

Adnams Bitter, Sharps Cornish Coaster and Westons Old Rosie cider are usually served here. Turn right out of the pub and continue along Morgan Street to the junction with Grove Road. Turn right into Grove Road and walk along Grove Road (noting the blue plaque on the far side of the railway bridge commemorating the spot where the first V1 flying bomb fell on London in 1944) to the pedestrian crossing just before the junction with Arbery Road. Cross over Grove Road, turn right along Grove Road then left into Haverfield Road. Walk through the big gates then bear right with the pathway to

3) 2 pm Palm Tree, 129 Grove Road, Bow, E3. Although this pub is not a listed building, it is on the London Regional Inventory, where the description is as follows: "A rebuild by Truman's in the 1930s. With the surrounding housing vanished, thanks first to Hitler and then the even more energetic post-war planners, it looks strangely adrift in a green area beside the Regent's Canal. The exterior has buff and mottled grey-blue ceramic-work and Truman's proud eagle. There are still two completely separate rooms. The corner one was originally subdivided into two and has also taken in the former jug and bottle. It has a particularly attractive sweeping hemispherical end to the bar counter. The other room was intended as the smarter area as can be seen by the rather finer detailing of the counter (panelled as opposed to upright tongue-and-grooved work). Both counters have before them the typical Truman's tiled chequerwork and both also have openings for access to the beer engines. On the right-hand side it looks as though the dart board cover is a survivor from the 1930s. The loos all have their original tilework (apart from the gents' off the corner bar). The loose furniture is worth a look for some attractive benches on the right-hand side and the 1930s tables in both bars. Those in the corner bar have unusual cork tops, as does the counter on the right-hand side. History close by: The canal was begun in 1812 to connect the Grand Junction Canal at Paddington Basin with the Thames at Limehouse. Two tunnels, forty bridges, twelve locks and eight years later it opened to become a major stimulus to commerce."

Two ever-changing real ales are available here. Retrace your steps to the pedestrian crossing in Grove Road. Cross over Grove Road, turn right and walk along Grove Road to the bus stop which is called Arbery Road. Catch a 425 bus to the stop just after the junction of Bow Road and Kit Cat Terrace (the stop is called Bow Church Station). Alight from the bus, turn left and walk down Bow Road to

4) 3.15 pm Little Driver, 125 Bow Road, Bow, E3. Although this pub is neither a listed building nor on the Regional Inventory, this former Charringtons pub retains some fine woodwork in the servery. Note also the splendid Hoare & Co.'s mirror on the right-hand wall and the delicate floral painted mirror panels in the bar-back and in the fire surround. According to Pevsner's Buildings of England the pub is of the same date as the former Bow Road Station next door, opened in 1869 but now a bookmakers. The pub cats, by the way, are called Tony and Colin.

Harvey's Sussex Bitter is usually served here. Turn left out of the pub and walk back along Bow Road to just before the junction with Kit Cat Terrace. Cross over Bow Road to Bow Church Station. As there are planned engineering works on the Docklands Light Railway, catch a rail replacement bus from Stop B to Devons Road Station. On alighting from the bus, walk along Devons Road to

5) 4.15 pm Widow's Son, 75 Devons Road, Bow, E3. Although this pub is not on the London Regional Inventory, it is a grade II* listed building and the listing description is as follows: "Early C19 with mid-Victorian P.H. and interior. 2 storeys. 5 windows. Pebble dash finish. Corner piers. Band and blocking course. Glazing bar sash windows on 1st floor. Ground floor has pilastered P.H. front with three fluted fascia brackets. Corinthian capitals of pilasters support fascia with moulded cornice. Plate glass window with fretted cast-iron vents in heads. Tiled plinth. Return to Shepperd Street of 2 windows over wide pilastered P.H.front matching Devons Road front. Corinthian capitals simpler. 2 storey 6 window continuation with 2 doors. Interior retains almost completely its c1870s fittings, including engraved mirrors, decorated panels to pilasters, gilt capitals and glass fronted cabinets containing assorted china. Ornamental lettered panels saying: "Importer and Bonder of choice Foreign Cigars:- The Widow's Son. Family line, Spirit and Malt Liquor Establishment" etc. Many transfer patterns on glass surfaces. Egg and dart in cornice. Nine pins or skittled stone base behind bar with engraved numerals. Hanging buns and sailors hat over bar refers to the legend of the Widow's Son."

Unfortunately no real ale is served here. Retrace your steps to Devons Road Station and catch a D8 bus from Stop BV to Crossharbour Station. On alighting from the bus, cross over East Ferry Road to

6) 5.30 pm George, 114 Glengall Grove, Isle of Dogs, E14. Although this pub is not a listed building it is on the Regional Inventory where the description is as follows: "The George was rebuilt in a rather austere, red-brick neo-Georgian style about 1930 and has kept three separate rooms and many original fittings. The best room is the left-hand one on the long façade. This has extensive panelling, the original bar counter and fittings and a series of pretty plaster friezes decorated with what appear to be blackberries (too knobbly for grapes!) and dog roses. There are a few Art Deco details scattered around, as for example on the fire surround. Two openings lead to a modern conservatory dining area. The next room is a small snug entirely separated from the previous one and again has various fittings from about 1930. A door leads on to the corner bar, the most interesting feature of which is a bar counter with hefty, lapped boards to the front. This area has incorporated an off-sales area, detectable in a blocked doorway which is visible outside. Most of the panelling in this room is relatively modern wood and is rather cheaply done. History round about. The Isle of Dogs is the promontory of land formed by a loop in the Thames opposite Greenwich. Not an island originally, the name (obscure in itself) is taken from a long-vanished island in the river. It was farmland until the northern part became the site of the West India Docks (opened 1802). Then in 1805 a canal was cut across the top of the peninsula so that at last the Isle of Dogs became an island."

Youngs Bitter, Caledonian Deuchars IPA, Fuller's London Pride and Timothy Taylor Landlord are usually available here. Retrace your steps to Crossharbour Station and catch a rail replacement bus from Stop CF to Westferry Station. From the station turn left and left again into West India Dock Road then cross over Commercial Road to

7) 6.30 pm Star of the East, 805a Commercial Road, Limehouse, E14. Although this pub is not on the London Regional Inventory, it is a grade II listed building and the listing description is as follows: "C19. One building although now occupied as two. Red brick and tiles, central hipped slate roof with cresting. 3 storeys, 3 sets of windows. Top floor, central window of 5 lights flanked by 3 light windows. 1st floor, central window of 3 lights with 2 light flanking windows. Stone filled tympana under gothic arches to all, except top outer windows, with roundels containing masks. Plain sashes, no glazing bars. Facade with decorative tiles above impost bands. Ground floor retains pub front although part now used as cafe. Interior features. Nos 795 to 805 (odd) and the Star of the East Public House form a group with the lamp standards in front of the Star of the East Public House."

Note also the series of blind arches containing heraldic symbols in rather garish colours with moulded heads above - a bit of a showpiece - and the understated but charming fire surround with a cockerel in the centre tile.

Unfortunately no real ale is served here. On leaving the pub, cross back over Commercial Road, turn right and walk along Commercial Road to the junction with Three Colt Street. Walk down Three Colt Street to the junction with Narrow Street. Turn right into Narrow Street, walk along it and then cross over to

8) 7.15pm Grapes, 76 Narrow Street, Limehouse, E14. Like the Star of the East, this pub is not on the London Regional Inventory but it is a grade II listed building and the listing description is as follows: "C19 facade. Stock brick, roof not visible. 4 storeys, 2 windows, sashes, vertical glazing bars only, segmental arches. Fascia board with end stops above ground floor. Small centre bay with 2 flanking doors. The Grapes Public House and Nos 78 to 94 (even) form a group."

Adnams Bitter, Marston's Pedigree and Timothy Taylor Landlord are usually served here.

The Regional Inventory descriptions in these notes are extracts from a book published in July 2008 by CAMRA called London Heritage Pubs: An Inside Story. Historic Pub Interiors in the Capital by Geoff Brandwood and Jane Jephcote. The book has descriptions and photographs of all 156 pubs currently on the London Regional Inventory. If you haven't already bought a copy there will be a small number of copies available to buy on the day of the crawl for £12.50 (cover price is £14.99).

1) 7 pm Bunch of Grapes, 207 Brompton Road, SW3 1LA. This pub is a grade II listed building and it is on CAMRA's London Regional Inventory of Pub Interiors of Special Historic Interest where the description is as follows: "This busy pub between Harrod's and the V&A Museum (hence usually crowded with tourists) was put up in 1844: it has three storeys and is now rather dwarfed by neighbouring 20th-century buildings. What is of interest for us here are the fairly substantial vestiges of a late-Victorian refitting. Pride of place goes to a series of back-painted mirrors. The first is in the left-hand lobby and shows the eponymous grapes hanging off a vine above various flowers. The mirrors continue with five on the left-hand wall showing birds and all sorts of vegetation. They are signed by 'W. James of Kentish Town' and date from 1890. It is possible to get a good sense of the way the pub was laid out a century ago. The servery is in the middle and is surrounded by various fragments of screens that would have divided the pub up into a series of separate drinking areas. Particularly notable is the row of five snob screens on the left-hand side with representations of birds and, of course, bunches of grapes. The area where they are located is demarcated by a gross head-height baffle carved with truly gargantuan clusters of grapes. Other historic features are the cast-iron columns with foliage capitals supporting the upstairs floors, and extensive etched glass.

History nearby: The collections at the Victoria & Albert Museum were formed in 1857 by combining those of the School of Design and the Museum of Ornamental Art (established as the Museum of Manufactures after the Great Exhibition of 1851). The museum complex has developed ever since and today it attracts visitors from all over the world. The church of St Philip Neri is known as the Brompton Oratory because it is served by priests from the Institute of the Oratory, founded by St Philip Neri in Rome in the 16th century. This Roman Catholic church was designed in Italian Baroque style by Herbert Gribble who won the commission in 1878 (it opened in 1884) and is the second-most important Roman Catholic church in London after Westminster Cathedral."

The listing description is as follows: "Mid C19 public house. Gault brick and stucco 3 windows wide, 3 storeys, with return to right of 7 windows including 3-bay 2-storey wing. Granite piers to ground floor front, possibly not original. Painted stucco Corinthian pilasters to return. Architraves to windows, with pediment to first floor centre window. Cornice above second floor, retaining balustrade and finials. Continuous cast iron balcony to first floor."

Greene King Abbot, IPA, Old Speckled Hen and St Edmunds are available here. Leave the pub by the Yeomans Row exit, cross over Yeomans Row, walk to the pedestrian crossing and cross over Brompton Road. Turn right and walk along Brompton Road to the bus stop. Catch a 14, 74, 414 or C1 bus to the stop just before Knightsbridge Green (the stop is called Knightsbridge Station). Walk up Knightsbridge Green to Knightsbridge. Turn right into Kniightsbridge and walk down it to

2) 8 pm Paxton's Head, 153 Knightsbridge, SW1. Like the Bunch of Grapes, this pub is a grade II listed building and it is on the London Regional Inventory where the description is as follows: "This popular pub is but a small part of the massive Park Mansions retail and residential redevelopment by architect G D Martin: it is in the phase built in 1900-2. There had been a pub on the site for generations and thus we have an interesting example of continuous usage for the licensed trade. The name commemorates Joseph Paxton who designed the Crystal Palace which stood nearby. Superlative etched and cut glass can be found lining the walls, and in doors and baffles. Motifs include grotesque masks, mythical birds, fruit, flowers and swirling foliage - all stock features in the repertoire of contemporary pub glass designs. Note in the doors at the rear right PH monograms. The bar counter with its panelled front and the ornate stillion in the middle date back to 1902, as does the central lobby with clock above. Also attractive Lincrusta ceiling with foliage decoration. Originally there would have been subdivisions surrounding the counter but these have all been swept away. The superstructure on the counter and bridges to the side walls are modern work.

History in the area: The area of Hyde Park nearest the pub was the site, in 1851, of the Great Exhibition. 230 entries for the building to house it were rejected before Joseph Paxton's stupendous glazed structure, based on the conservatory at Chatsworth House, Derbyshire, where he was garden superintendent, was eventually chosen. It was removed to Sydenham where it enjoyed a new lease of life until destroyed in a spectacular blaze in 1936."

The listing description is as follows: "Public house. 1900-02 by G. D. Martin as part of the Park Mansions development.
MATERIALS: red brick with stone dressings; first floor painted. Timber and glass ground floor facade with larvikite pilasters. Slate-hung Mansard roof. Red brick stack straddling the angle of the roof.
PLAN: single ground floor bar (formerly with subdivisions) with island servery. Corridor and stairs to right. Assembly room on first floor.
EXTERIOR: 7 storeys. Central entrance (with large fanlight) framed by 2-light, 4-centre-headed window on left, similar single light window on right. Further entrance on far right. On first floor, pairs of 4-centre-headed windows with small panes in the heads, in centre 2-light square-headed window. Second, third and fourth storeys with 3-sided bay windows framing 2-light windows in the centre. Fifth storey with broad segmental headed windows framing a 2-light window. Sixth floor 2-1-2 square-headed window configuration. Dormers in attic storey.
INTERIOR: Bar lined with plain and etched glass mirrors under square and semi-circular heads and rising to full height. Island servery with curved ends and fielded panel counter front. Contemporary bar back with ornate detail. Large gantry above counter probably mid C20. Lincrusta ceiling of 2 different patterns, that at the front with foliage trails, that at the back with geometrical designs. Fireplace to rear left with corbelled-out overmantel. Corridor also extensively covered with mirrors. Staircase to first and second floors with flat, pierced cast iron balusters. 2 brass light fittings on the half-landing to first floor. Assembly room with cast iron grill inscribed 'David Wilson & Co. 77 Lever Street, London EC'; floral tiled borders. Timber panelling to window jambs. Marble fireplace.
HISTORY: Licensed premise has occupied the site since at least 1632 when it was known as the King's Head. From the 1760s it became known as the Granby's Head or the Marquis of Granby's Head. In 1851-3 it was rebuilt and took the present name. The building is highly unusual in that it has retained its ancient usage within a large modern development.
A fine example of an ornate pub of c.1900 which retains its island servery and many of its other contemporary fittings."

Fuller's London Pride, Greene King Old Speckled Hen, Shepherd Neame Spitfire and Wells Bombardier are usually served here. Turn right out of the pub and continue along Knightsbridge to the junction of Knightsbridge and Brompton Road. Cross over Brompton Road, turn left and walk to Knightsbridge Station. Cross over Sloane Street using the subway and continue along Knightsbridge to the junction of Knightsbridge and Wilton Place. Turn right into Wilton Place and walk along it to the junction with Kinnerton Street. Turn right into Kinnerton Street and walk down it to the continuation of Kinnerton Street. Turn left, cross over Kinnerton Street and continue along Kinnerton Street to

3) 8.45 pm Nag's Head, 53 Kinnerton Street, Belgravia, SW1. Although neither a listed building nor on the London Regional Inventory, this is an early 19th-century pub in a charming mews street with an unusual split-level interior. Much of the fittings are said to be imported but the pub retains an olde worlde feel.

Adnams Bitter and Broadside are available here. Retrace your steps to Wilton Place, cross over Wilton Place and continue straight ahead past the church to a gateway at the end of the street on the left-hand side. Go through the gateway then turn right and right again and continue down the mews to the red gate. Go through the gate to

4) 9.30 pm Grenadier, 18 Wilton Row, Belgravia, SW1. Although this pub is not a listed building, it is on the London Regional Inventory, where the description is as follows: "Now very much an upmarket place for a drink and a meal, this was once a simple back-street boozer. It was built about 1830 to serve the needs of the staff from the neighbouring mansions and also thirsty guards from a barracks that was located to the west from about 1762 and around 1835. The pub was originally known as the Guardsman. The plain, three-storey Georgian frontage appears much as it did when originally built (apart from the thoroughly unnecessary application of white paint) with stairs up to the main entrance and a door on the side. The two doors suggest that, small as the pub is, it would have had a couple of separate drinking areas. The fittings are simple and basic as befits what was once an artisan pub - a matchboarded dado round the walls and matchboarded bar counter. The latter has intriguing traces in the centre part that suggest that panels were removable. At some later stage a pewter top has been placed on the counter. The two rear rooms have been brought into use in relatively recent years. The left-hand one is dominated by a huge mirror advertising 'Mann, Crossman & Paulin Ltd Old and Mild Ales and Stout' - a reminder of beer styles that in London have now been largely consigned to history.

History in the area: Belgravia was originally called the Five Fields when it was a rural area. In the 1820s it was developed by the Grosvenor family and named Belgrave after one of their country properties. Belgrave Square was mainly designed by Thomas Cubitt in 1826 but some of the terraces and villas were designed by other architects including Sir Robert Smirke. The mews houses were inhabited by coachmen, grooms and their families. Many famous people have lived in Belgravia and it is also home to many embassies."

Batemans XXXB, Timothy Taylor Landlord and a guest beer are usually served here. DO NOT USE MOBILE PHONES OR PARK BICYCLES HERE. Turn left out of the pub and walk down Wilton Row to the junction with Wilton Crescent, cross over Wilton Crescent and turn left. Continue along Wilton Crescent to the junction with Belgrave Square. Turn right into Belgrave Square and walk along Belgrave Square (north side) to the junction with Wilton Terrace. Cross over Wilton Terrace and then cross over West Halkin Street. Turn right and walk down West Halkin Street to the junction with Belgrave Mews West. Cross over Belgrave Mews West to

5) 10.15 pm Star, 6 Belgrave Mews West, Belgravia, SW1. Although this pub is not on the London Regional Inventory, it is a grade II listed building and the listing description is as follows: "Public house. Early to mid C19. 3 storeys, plus attic, 3 windows wide. Brick. Stucco to ground floor. Pilastered sub-front. Square headed window with gauged heads. Sashes, glazing bars. Cornice above second floor. Words "Star Tavern" in stucco to attic."

Fuller's Chiswick, Discovery, ESB and London Pride are usually served here.

The Regional Inventory descriptions in these notes are extracts from a book published in July 2008 by CAMRA called London Heritage Pubs: An Inside Story. Historic Pub Interiors in the Capital by Geoff Brandwood and Jane Jephcote. The book has descriptions and photographs of all 156 pubs currently on the London Regional Inventory. If you haven't already bought a copy there will be a small number of copies available to buy on the day of the crawl for £12.50 (cover price is £14.99).

1) 12 noon Bridge, Western Avenue, Greenford, UB6 8ST. This pub is on CAMRA's London Regional Inventory of Pub Interiors of Special Historic Interest and the description is as follows: "Opened in 1937, this pub was built as a smart roadhouse to serve the comings and goings along the busy A40. It has changed drastically over the years and now functions primarily as a hotel, although anyone is welcome to use the bar (after they have negotiated the gated access). When the first edition of this guide appeared in 2004 there were still three separate rooms with a common servery running between them. We have retained it for the present edition because the central room is still well worth a look. Lying on the rounded corner of the pub, it is quadrant shaped with counter, bar-back and canopy over being mostly original. There are also appealing wedge-shaped alcoves towards the outside, two on either side of the Tudor-style fireplace (above it a much-darkened picture of Old Greenford Bridge before the A40 was invented). Until recently the alcoves had interesting wedge-shaped tables which have been ripped out in favour of plush seating. On the right the sliding door has also gone but the room beyond still has much of its 1930s panelling. Some also remains in the left-hand room, now much opened towards the hotel. History nearby: Despite the 20th-century roadscape which dominates the area, Oldfield Lane South boasts two old buildings: the Grade I-listed Holy Cross church and the grade II Betham House, formerly a school founded in the late 18th century by the Rev. Edward Betham."

Once you are outside the pub, note also the former off licence (now function room) and the ceramic rams on the exterior of the building.

Charles Wells Bombardier, and Young's Bitter, Special and Winter Warmer are served here. On leaving the pub, go down the subway and leave it by Exit 4. Turn right and walk to the nearest bus stop in Greenford Road. Catch the 92, 95, 105 or E6 bus to the stop just before the junction of Greenford Road and Ruislip Road East (the stop is called Ruislip Road East). Alight from the bus, turn left into Ruislip Road East and catch the E2 or E9 bus to the first stop after the bus turns into Scotch Common. Alight from the bus, turn left and walk along Scotch Common to

2) 1 pm Duke of Kent, 2 Scotch Common, West Ealing, W13. This is one of several pubs on the crawl designed by the architect Thomas Henry Nowell Parr. Nowell Parr was born in Handsworth, West Midlands in 1864. He started his career as an architectural assistant in Walsall Corporation Architects' Department (1890 - 1894) and then moved to Middlesex to work in Brentford Urban District Council (UDC) Architects' Department from 1894 to 1897. From 1897 to 1907 he was Architect, Engineer and Surveyor to Brentford UDC and, while retaining this post, he set up his own architectural practice in 1900. Among his designs for Brentford UDC is Brentford Library, built in 1903 and opened on 9 May 1904 by the American millionaire philanthropist, Andrew Carnegie who had donated £5,000 to the cost of the building. In the same year (1904) a Boatmen's Institute was built for the London City Mission to Nowell Parr's design on the Grand Union Canal at Brentford - it is now a private house. He also undertook commissions from Fuller's and, as mentioned above, the Royal Brewery, Brentford with the Three Horseshoes, Southall and the Forester, West Ealing among his other pubs. Nowell Parr's son, John Nowell Parr (died 1975) joined the architectural practice at some point. In 1914 Thomas Henry Nowell Parr moved from 42 Cranley Gardens, South Kensington to 52 Kew Bridge Road, Brentford. In 1925 he became a Fellow of the Royal Institute of British Architects. He died on 23 September 1933.

This pub is a grade II listed building and it is on the London Regional Inventory where the description is as follows: "An imposing suburban Fuller's house rebuilt in 1929 to designs by the excellent pub architect T. H. Nowell Parr and dominated externally by three gables on the rendered frontage. Although the pub has been modernised internally the original arrangements are still very much in evidence, especially along the front. Here there are three distinct rooms with internal partitions, the pair on the right even retaining a doorway between them. Needless to say each of the rooms had its own external entrance. The wall panelling remains as does the bar counter, although the fitting behind seems a fairly modern replacement. In the windows there is some very typical, attractive dimpled glass that was popular with pub-builders around 1930. At the rear the counter is again original. The back parts were extended in 1934 by Hall Jones & Partners to Parr's design. There is a large, hemispherical skylight but there has been extensive opening up and the spaces are now rather confused. However, they offer a pleasant prospect over the large garden at a lower level. On the left-hand side of the pub there seems to have been an off-sales shop which has now been taken into the body of the trading area. History on the spot: The pub is built on the site of Castle Hill Lodge, a 27-acre site with a house (gone by 1840) owned by Edward, Duke of Kent, fourth son of George III and the father of Queen Victoria. The pub was known as the Kent Hotel until 2003."

The listing description is as follows: "Public House. 1929 by Nowell Parr, extended to rear 1934 by Hall Jones and Partners to Parr's design. Red brick; machine tile roofs. EXTERIOR: south elevation of 2 storeys and dormer attic; 3-window range. Symmetrical main block with projecting central section with 3 attic gables. Recessed doorways to right and left, that to left (west) under moulded flat hood on scrolled consoles leading to saloon bar. Right doorway into public bar within open porch on single brick corner pier. Central half-glazed double doors to private bar flanked by 2-light leaded metal casements either side with stained glass and glazing bars. One 6-light casement of similar design between side doors and central doorway. Continuous timber fascia above windows. First floor with central canted bay window fitted with 4 leaded metal casements, and one 3-light window right and left. Central attic gable projects on scrolled brackets: one single-light casement. Outer gables each with one 2-light casement. 2 stacks on front roof slope. Single-storey gabled west extension with a tripartite bay window with leaded glazing and a half-glazed door to the left, under an overlight. Rear with hipped 2-storey block fitted with 3-light leaded cross casements to first floor and a central ridge stack. Ground floor obscured by single-storey covered terrace added 1934: rebuilt central external staircase to garden rises to 2 double-leaf glazed doors in short extension with glazed doors in returns. Main wall with one 2-light cross casement right and left. Twin-flight external staircases right and left, of 1929, led originally to open terrace. That to west serves part of original terrace. That to east rises to double glazed doors with a 2-light leaded casement to its left. INTERIOR: 3 front bars each with high dado panelling, timber chimneypieces with cast-iron inserts, bench seating, panelled bridging beams and remote winder window openers. 6-panelled doors open from private bar into the others. Curved panelled bar counter serves all three bars. Rear bar in 2 parts. South part is former dining room: panelled bridging beams and small-framed dado panelling. Elaborate carved timber chimneypiece in east wall with carved overmantel mirror and cast-iron fire insert. West wall with 3 six-panelled doors serving cloakrooms and private entrance lobby. North wall broken through in 1934 into north part, the ceiling supported on 3 steel piers. Panelled bridging beams. 2 domed glazed roof lights with glazing bars set in geometric patterns with coloured glass."

Fuller's Chiswick, Discovery and London Pride plus seasonal ales are usually served here. Turn right out of the pub and walk along Scotch Common to the junction with Argyle Road. Turn right into Argyle Road and walk to the bus stop. Catch the E7 bus to the stop just before the junction of Drayton Green Road and The Avenue. Alight from the bus and cross over The Avenue to

3) 2.45 pm Drayton Court Hotel, 2 The Avenue, West Ealing, W13. Although this pub is neither a listed building nor on the London Regional Inventory, some fine features remain, notably in the sitting room off the lobby which, with the staircase, retains a period feel. As for the exterior, it is described in the Pevsner Buildings of England as "heavy-handed High Victorian".

Fuller's Chiswick, Discovery, ESB and London Pride plus seasonal ales are usually served here. Turn left out of the pub and walk along The Avenue to where Drayton Green Road begins, then continue along Drayton Green Road to the junction with Uxbridge Road. Cross over Uxbridge Road to Northfield Avenue. Walk to the nearest bus stop on the left-hand (east) side of Northfield Avenue and catch the E2 or E3 bus to the stop just after the junction of Northfield Avenue and Leighton Road. Cross over Northfield Avenue, turn right and walk to the junction with Leighton Road. Turn left into Leighton Road and cross over to

4) 3.45 pm Forester, 2 Leighton Road, West Ealing, W13. This pub is a grade II listed building and it is not only on the London Regional Inventory but also the National Inventory. The Regional Inventory description is as follows: "A fine example of Edwardian suburban pub-building, erected in 1909 to designs by T. H. Nowell Parr for the Royal Brewery of Brentford. Parr provided a most distinctive piece of architecture, notable for its columned porticoes, green-glazed brickwork and prominent gables. Like Parr's Three Horseshoes, Southall, UB1 (p.XXX), the Forester shows a shift away from late-Victorian glitz and glitter towards a more restrained style. In all there are four rooms. There were originally five plus the (disused) off-sales on Seaford Road, the reduction being caused by the amalgamation of the two rooms to form the public bar. There are two rooms facing Leighton Road and one of these has the remarkable distinction of possessing the only historic bell-pushes for waiter service known to the authors in London pubs. For the avoidance of doubt they even have the word 'BELL' above them! Apart from their rarity, they are curious in that there is a perfectly decent bar counter in this room where able-bodied drinkers might reasonably have been expected to order their drinks! There are some fine furnishings at the Forester. The servery still has its original counter and bar-backs which display a number of Tudor arches, a favourite motif of Parr's. There are a couple of Edwardian fireplaces complete with the green tilework and in the public bar there are long-defunct remnants of gas lighting. There are also some delightful floral Art Nouveau-style stained glass panels in the windows. In the heart of the servery is an office for the publican. There are doors in the counters for gaining access to service the beer engines in former times. The rear lounge is given over to well regarded Thai food. History across the road: The allotments on the eastern side of Northfield Avenue have been there since 1832. The allotments were established next to market gardens and orchards which proliferated in this area."

The listing description is as follows: "Public house. 1909 by Thomas Henry Nowell Parr for the Royal Brewery, Brentford. Rendered brick with granite plinth; gabled plain tile roof; corniced brick stacks. Domestic Revival style. 2 storeys, with 3-bay elevations to both Leighton Road and Seaford Road. Continuous ground-floor frontage, set on granite plinth and divided by piers with green tile facings, is linked by decorative iron railings surmounting dentilled cornice and plain fascia; original half-glazed doors set behind rounded open porch with Tuscan columns to corner, and two segmental-pedimented porches with Tuscan columns to Leighton Road; bracketed pediment over half-glazed door to public bar in centre of Seaford Road elevation; Tripartite wood-mullioned and transomed windows with 4-centred arches to lower lights and stained glass to upper lights. First floor has gauged red brick cambered arches over 3-light sashes flanked by shutters; two outer bays to Leighton Road have similar sashes to bow windows set beneath carved brackets supporting projecting gables with dentilled cornices continued round to Seaford Road elevation which has similar gable set over cornice and recessed first-floor bay. Left-hand return has conservatory to front of projecting bay with French window and flanking windows with glazing bars and stained glass upper lights. Interior: complete pub interior, with public bar to right of large saloon bar which opens onto restaurant to rear. Beamed ceilings; panelled dados; neo-Georgian fireplaces; mahogany bar counter and fittings with pilasters framing mirrors; Tudor-arched doors, with pedimented screens to saloon; saloon bar has panelled bar partitions; public bar has benches set against wall with turned balusters. The Forester is the most celebrated of Nowell Parr's pub designs, which formed a transition between the ornate pubs of the 1890s, divided into compartments, and the move restrained neo-Georgian and Tudor open-plan pubs of the inter-war period. (The Graphic, April 3 1909)"

Courage Best and Hop Back Summer Lightning are usually served here. On leaving the pub, retrace your steps to the bus stop and catch the E3 bus to the junction of Acton High Street and King Street (the stop is called King Street). Alight from the bus and cross over Acton High Street to

5) 4.45 pm George & Dragon, 183 High Street, Acton, W3. Although this pub is not on the London Regional Inventory, it is a Grade II listed building. It was comprehensively refurbished in 2006 but it retains an olde worlde panelled interior plus some imported features such as the stone Tudor fireplace. The exuberant painted mural in the dining room at the rear is a wonderful hommage to Henri "Douanier" Rousseau. The listing description is as follows: "Two distinct periods. To left, later C18, 3 storeys and 3 bays with a single blank window to centre bay at first floor. Sashed windows and painted brick front. Ground storey. Good Edwardian public house front. To right, C17 timber frame with stucco front and slate roof. Two bays. Two storeys. Left band, carriage entrance under bay window. Right hand, modern shop at ground storey level. The origins of the building are clear from the rear with jettying and some C18 sash windows. Interior largely altered but has an apparently C18 staircase with turned balusters and closed string."

Fuller's Chiswick, Discovery and London Pride plus Gales HSB are usually served here.

Retrace your steps to the bus stop and catch the E3 bus to the stop just after the junction of Bath Road and Turnham Green Terrace (the stop is called Turnham Green Station). Alight from the bus, turn left and walk to the junction of Turnham Green Terrace and Bath Road. Turn right into Bath Road and walk along it to

6) 5.45 pm Tabard, 2 Bath Road, Chiswick, W4. This pub's entry on the London Regional Inventory was deleted when it was reassessed a few years ago. However, it is briefly described at the end of the description of another Regional Inventory pub in Chiswick, the Duke of York as follows: "Tabard, built in 1880 by the great architect Norman Shaw as the pub for the new, refined garden suburb of Bedford Park. Although very substantially refitted the beautiful William De Morgan wall tiles survive. The counter seems original but the bar-back and seating in the rear, lower area are good modern work in an Arts and Crafts style. The right-hand bar has obviously lost a partition (hence the two entrance doors)." The Tabard is also a grade II* listed building and the listing description is as follows: "The Tabard public house and No.2 Bath Road. A row formerly comprising a public house, private house and stores, now a public house and offices. 1880 by Richard Norman Shaw, as part of Jonathan Carr's development of Bedford Park. Red brick with rough-cast, tile-hanging, tiled roofs. A three storey row, divided into seven gabled bays, recessed in the centre. The Tabard: the western two bays comprise the Tabard, with gabled return to the west. Ground floor with entrance porch carried on Tuscan columns, flanked by many-paned windows. First floor with projecting bow windows flanked by round windows; projecting painted pub sign suspended from a moulded beam. Projecting twin-gabled overhang to upper floor above moulded cornice: tile-hung, with five light mullioned windows in each gable. Similar return to the west, partly hidden by a later fire escape. Tile-hung rear extension. Central two bays: Brick-faced up to second floor level. Pair of six-pane doors within gauged brick shouldered surrounds with pediments; four 416 pane sash windows to ground floor with keystones and aprons. First floor has four 616 pane sash windows with hoods, keystones and aprons, set between Doric pilasters supporting an entablature; upper storey is jet tied and rough-cast. The easternmost three bays were originally used as stores, now offices. Extensively glazed ground floors, over lunettes to basement; three eight-light leaded oriel 'Ipswich' windows on brackets to first floor; seven-light windows with arched centres to jet tied second floor. Return to Flanders Road of similar treatment, with large garage door to ground floor; rear elevation with oriel windows to first floor. INTERIORS: interior of Tabard includes numerous items of note. These include: entrance lobbies with glazed doors and overdoor strapwork reliefs; painted tile decoration by William de Morgan to walls; moulded dado rails, door and window surrounds; panelled bar counter with metal foot rest; alcove with console-framed arch; bolection-moulded chimneypieces with nursery rhyme tiles and mirror; panelled rear alcove. Extension to left incorporates former ground floor of neighbouring house: two adjoining rooms with tongue and groove panelling up to dado rail; skylight to rear. First floor: currently in use as theatre, reached via stairs with panelling up to dado rail. Features include large chimney piece with moulded surround incorporating painted tiles with egg and dart moulding; fielded panelling up to dado rail; two panel doors; window seat. Interiors of No.2 Bath Road modernised as offices; upper floors not inspected. HISTORY: These buildings, together with St Michael's Church, were designed as the social centre-piece of Bedford Park and proved highly influential for subsequent suburban developments. Inspired by Staples Inn in Holborn, these buildings are in Shaw's English Domestic Revival (or 'Queen Anne') style and were to be widely imitated in Britain and the United States of America. The Tabard was a pioneering 'improved' pub and represented a rejection of the Gin Palace in favour of a more traditionally inspired and respectable inn. REFERENCES: Building News, 2nd Jan and 31st Jan. 1880; Andrew Saint, Richard Norman Shaw (1976),209; Mark Girouard, Sweetness and Light (1984), 202."

Fuller's Chiswick, Greene King IPA, Ruddles County and a guest beer are usually available here. On leaving the pub, retrace your steps to the bus stop and catch the E3 to the stop just before the junction of Chiswick High Road and Heathfield Terrace (the stop is called Turnham Green Church). Alight from the bus, cross over Chiswick High Road and continue along Chiswick High Road to

7) 6.30 pm Old Pack Horse, 434 Chiswick High Road, Chiswick, W4. Like the Duke of Kent and the Forester, this pub was designed by Nowell Parr, is a grade II listed building and is on the London Regional Inventory where the description is as follows: "An architectural extravaganza of 1910 to designs by the prolific T. H. Nowell Parr for Fuller, Smith & Turner who still own it (it is also doubles as a Thai restaurant). The Edwardian free-style exterior has abundant faïence on the ground floor and lots of most interesting detailing in the floors above. Three original rooms are still clearly discernible and retain their names in the etched window glass (some of it gently curved). Easily the best space is the saloon (on Acton Lane) with its panelling and delightful alcove and original fireplace: this sits behind a Tudor arch. Such arches are a Parr favourite (as elsewhere in this pub). The counter in the saloon is original too and has highly unusual detailing: the surround of the bar-back is original although the centre part is, unfortunately, modern work. Round the corner the main bar-back, however, is original as is the main run of the counter: the counter in the area on the corner of the pub is a crude cobbling together of old and new elements. All the rooms have another Parr characteristic - exposed wooden studding and beams. Don't miss the stained glass packhorses and Fuller's griffin. Throughout the pub there are very attractive chairs with elongated lozenges in the backs: improbable as it may be, could these date from 1910? One of the redundant doorways must have served an off-sales. History nearby: Round the corner to the north is Charles Holden's Chiswick Park underground station of 1931-2 with its wonderful semi-circular ticket hall."

The listing description is as follows: "Circa 1905. Public House. By Nowell Parr. Red brick with terracotta and coloured tiling decoration and tiled roofs. Three storeys, 5 bays facing timber beam and the return to Acton Lane. Unaltered Public House front in tiled work with Corinthian columns. Mullion and transom windows above. Terracotta segmental pediment in centre. Two roof gables. Additional terracotta decoration in the way of window dressings, balustrades etc. Unaltered exterior and largely unaltered interior. Important corner position. The best preserved example of a public house by the Fuller, Smith and Turner house architect."

Fuller's Chiswick, Discovery, ESB and London Pride are usually available here.

The Regional Inventory descriptions in these notes are extracts from a book published in July 2008 by CAMRA called London Heritage Pubs: An Inside Story. Historic Pub Interiors in the Capital by Geoff Brandwood and Jane Jephcote. The book has descriptions and photographs of all 156 pubs currently on the London Regional Inventory. If you haven't already bought a copy there will be a small number of copies available to buy on the day of the crawl for £12.99 (cover price is £14.99).

The first London Pubs Group tour of 2008 took place on Saturday 16 February and concentrated on the Notting Hill, Kensington and Bayswater areas. Participants mustered first at midday in the Elgin, 96 Ladbroke Grove, W11. This pub is an 1856 grade II listed building and is on both CAMRA's London Regional Inventory and its National Inventory. Three distinct rooms are still clearly discernible although they are now interlinked. The star performer is the room in the northern part which is separated from the corner bar by a wonderful timber and glass screen of exceptional exuberance. The grey etched parts, gilded patterns and facetted jewel-like details gleam and sparkle. Then there is a bar-back of rare richness, embellished with seventeenth-century detailing, gilded mirrors and a frieze of bas-relief apples. Finally, on the side wall come coloured tile strips and more gilded mirrors displaying foliage, hops, butterflies and birds in flight. The counters are original too and are classic examples of that curious feature found in London pubs but not, apparently, elsewhere - doors to allow the servicing of the beer engines in times gone by. A sadness is the modern replacement in the corner bar of the Victorian bar-back by a hideous cheap affair with metal uprights. Behind the servery is an office with some fine decorative glass. In the 1990s Allied Breweries transferred operations from the Taylor Walker brand to their Nicholson's Inn chain and were clearly keen to spend some money on the place, but a aura of faded and decaying grandeur seems to have set in since. Real ale available was Greene King IPA and proved quite acceptable in condition. At one time the pub's windows were routinely boarded-up prior to the annual carnival but, given the area's transformation from 'the front line' to home of the 'Notting Hill Set', it seems such precautions are no longer deemed necessary!

The Elgin - Exterior and Interior
photographs by Kim Rennie

Some of the tour party then diverted to an unscheduled stop at the Earl of Lonsdale on the corner of Portobello Road and Westbourne Grove. This Sam Smith's pub was recently refurbished in traditional style with the piece-de-resistance being the reinstatement or introduction of wood and glass three-quarter height division screens separating the main island servery into four or five distinct drinking areas. Though by no means as impressive as their breathtaking transformation of the Princess Louise in Holborn, the effect is still mightily impressive and a credit to the brewery. Unfortunately, Sam Smith's policy of removing cask ales from most of its London estate meant that no real ale was on offer. The pub goes back to 1847 and was one of the Henekey Free Houses later acquired by Whitbread. Henekey's were famed for quality pub interiors and notable examples still extant are the Cittie of York, Holborn and Lyceum Tavern, Strand.

The Earl of Lonsdale - Interior
photographs by Kim Rennie

Next port of call was the Cock & Bottle in Needham Road, W11. Although this pub is not a listed building it is on the London Regional Inventory and has one outstanding feature, an exceptionally ornate bar-back. It also has a series of round columns with florid Corinthian capitals and the various round-headed projections on these have long been a mystery. It is believed there was once a gravity-feed system for spirits and wines (housed above the bar) which were fed down the pipes in the hollow columns to cocks on the stubs. There are still traces of pipes for exactly that purpose at the Travellers' Friend, Woodford. Notable also were the pretty stained glass panels of swans which relate to the old name which changed in the late-1980s. Beers available during our visit were Fuller's London Pride, Hog's Back TEA and Sharp's Doom Bar. According to Real Beer in West London (1989), the pub dates from 1851 and was formerly under the Watney banner.

A brisk walk under perfectly clear blue skies took us south of Notting Hill Gate into Kensington and the Windsor Castle at 114 Campden Hill Road, W8. Although this pub is not a listed building it is on both the London Regional Inventory and the National Inventory. This plain, two-storey building of around 1825 sits at the summit of Campden Hill Road and was refitted about 1933. We know this because in the 'Sherry Bar' there is a plaque helpfully explaining that the oak used in that room was felled in the period 1930-32. Also helpful is the fact that the door glass names each of the three traditional rooms. The Sherry Bar is entered off Peel Street, the private bar is on the corner, while the Campden Bar lies along Campden Hill Road. Perhaps it says something for the upmarket nature of the area in the 1930s that the rooms have fancier names than the usual public bar, saloon, etc.

The Windsor Castle - Interior
photographs by Kim Rennie

The mahogany bar-back is the sole survivor from the Victorian era. Otherwise the fittings are pretty much intact from the 1930s, even down to some pretty Arts & Crafts door furniture. Pride of place goes to the two screens which create three rooms very much in the manner of a Victorian public house. There are even low service doors to give access for pot boys and cleaning staff. All the rooms have attractive fixed seating which looks as though it could have come from an ancient country pub. The private bar and Campden Bar have counters with raked matchboard panelling whereas the Sherry Bar has fielded panelling. The latter also has a brick fireplace and, over it, a much yellowed picture of the eponymous castle. Spaces have been added in post-war times on the right-hand side. The pub's name is said to come from the fact that on a clear day Windsor Castle could be seen from it. Fuller's London Pride and a guest beer, on this occasion Caledonian Deuchars IPA, are usually served here.

More leg-work in what had turned out to be a chilly afternoon took members to an extremely busy Churchill Arms, 119 Kensington Church Street, W8. Built in the Victorian era but given a complete internal refit between the wars, this pub is not a listed building but is on the London Regional Inventory. There would have been separate rooms of course at that time but although the partitions have gone, leaving a U-shaped drinking area wrapping round the servery, most of the rest of the c.1930 work survives. The windows are very attractive with their canted bays and charming art-nouveau-inspired stained glass details. Then there is the bar counter which has two distinctly different designs from the counter front in the left-hand parts. Most of it has panels with triple mouldings round them but the smaller, right-hand part is much plainer. This makes it clear that they must have been separated by a partition and, if you look closely, you can see in the window-sill a small piece of patching where the old screen stood. The walls are extensively panelled and there are a couple of pretty tiled fireplaces. There are two sets of snob-screens mounted on the counter but their age is a moot point. When the present licensee came in the mid-1980s they formed a continuous run but it's hard to believe such an intrusive feature would have been installed in the 1930s when people favoured unencumbered counters. For a Fullers pub it was not surprising that London Pride, ESB and Chiswick were available, plus a seasonal 3.8% 'Swing Low' which was no doubt being appreciated by, and pitched at, the many of those watching the rugby on TV. As is common on crawls of this nature, the party had started to become strung out by this point, with individuals and groups progressing at their own pace using printed tour notes during the afternoon.

The Churchill Arms - Interior
photographs by Kim Rennie

The penultimate stop was the Mitre, 24 Craven Terrace, W2. This ex-Whitbread pub is a grade II listed building and is on the London Regional Inventory. It occupies a triangular corner site and has an unusual pair of slightly curved doors at the angle, leading to an attractive little lobby where the pub name appears on the inner door. Before you go in, the windows are worth a look for the very individual ironwork in the uprights and sub-Gothic tracery. Very sadly the glass has been replaced with plain sheets. The most impressive work is on the right-hand side with mosaic flooring at the entrance which stretches back into two more panels. In this area is an excellent display of etched, cut and orange-coloured glass, including a door panel advertising 'Ladies Bar'; which shows how some pubs at the end of the 19th century were starting to provide a secure environment for respectable women who previously would have regarded the pub as completely out of bounds. Other glass advertises an upstairs billiard room and a saloon which has a small coloured skylight. In the main bar three stubs of wood and glass screening have survived from what must have been more extensive screens dividing the pub up into separate drinking areas. The counter is Victorian: in the saloon it forms a quadrant with panelled decoration while in the main bar it has vertical panelling. The bar-back has contemporary wood and mirrors. Fuller's London Pride and the seasonal 'Swing Low', Charles Wells Bombardier, Hog's Back TEA and Sharp's Doom Bar were on during our visit.

The Mitre - Interior and Exterior
photographs by Kim Rennie

The crawl ended in the white stucco-rendered Victoria in Strathearn Place, W2. This former Charrington house, now Fuller's pub is, like the Mitre, a grade II listed building and also on the London Regional Inventory. On a corner site and of c.1840-50, it has some very early and spectacular fittings. Such was the amount of pub renovation at the end of the 19th century, and since, that any fittings before the late-Victorian era are incredibly rare. Those at the Victoria are stylistically mid-Victorian and a precise date, 1864, is suggested by the date on a clock in the bar-back fitting. These, and a side wall, have large mirrors with intricate gilding and coloured decoration, each panel being separated from the others by detached columns with lozenge and fleur-de-lys decoration. In the angle of the building is a delicate Regency-style fireplace containing a print of Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and their numerous progeny. The counter is no doubt a piece from 1864 with panelled bays divided by fluted pilasters. It still retains a fully functioning brass water-dispenser for diluting spirits. Mounted on the long wall in wooden frames are coloured prints of soldiers but these are most probably a relatively modern (though now smoke-stained) addition.

The Victoria - Interior
photographs by Kim Rennie

There are several outside doors and these would have led originally to a series of internal drinking areas, separated by screenwork. On the first floor is the Theatre Bar, installed c.1958 with fittings salvaged from Shaw, Runtz and Ford's Gaiety Theatre of 1902-3 which stood in the Aldwych. Balcony fronts supported on Corinthian columns line the walls and a comer is counter set with boards from the shows, one signed Westwood Brothers suggesting that Bryan and Nonnan Westwood (working nearby at the time) may have been the architects for the installation. The bar-back depicts the Gaiety and there are two small box fronts in comers. The separate dining room was adapted after 1955 in neo-Queen Anne style, with panelling, fireplace and comer cupboards decorated with swags. These fittings may well also come from the Gaiety. The Victoria is of interest as a remarkably complete public house interior of the 1890s, to which the identified embellishments from the much lamented Gaiety Theatre add interest, both in their own right and as a rare surviving indication of the interest in Victoriana, particularly as expressed in pub interiors, that was beginning to emerge in the late-1950s. Fuller's Discovery, ESB and London Pride were on handpump, plus the rugby-themed Swing Low which seemed to have replaced Chiswick Bitter here for the duration of the tournament.

The Victoria - Exterior
photographs by Kim Rennie

Thus concluded another interesting and successful LPG tour, cheers and here's to the next one!

Some of the content of this article comes from Geoff Brandwood's and Jane Jephcote's forthcoming book London Heritage Pubs - an Inside Story. Historic Pub Interiors in the Capital. This is a book version of the London Regional Inventory and contains descriptions and photographs of 156 London pubs. It is due to be published in July 2008. Cover price is £14.99 (£12.99 for CAMRA members). It will be available from CAMRA HQ, CAMRA beer festivals and in bookshops from early July 2008.

Kim Rennie
Geoff Brandwood
Jane Jephcote

The evening of Wednesday 18 April saw the London Pubs Group visit pubs of interior architectural interest in the Hampstead area. Twenty-five members in all took part in the tour, with most making it by 7.30 to the official starting point, the Horseshoe at 28 Heath Street. This pub was chosen for its convenient location near to the Underground station but has had a varied history. Formerly the Three Horseshoes and a rather jaded Grand-Met Truman pub, it was acquired by Wetherspoon in 1992 and seemed to enjoy a number of successful years in that role. Alas, it appears the latter company are only interested in 'mega' ex-bank or cinema conversions nowadays and it joined the many north London pubs they disposed of in 2003.

For a while afterwards it continued in a sort of 'Wetherspoon-lite' mode under London & Edinburgh control before receiving a thorough makeover to emerge in its latest incarnation, the independently owned Horseshoe (singular) in 2006. The emphasis is very much on food, with a large open plan stainless steel kitchen prominent in the bar, but real ale is not forgotten, as the pub brews on the premises. The clientele seems to be a mix of young trendies and suits and a complete change from the former Wetherspoon's crowd. The service appeared a little brusque, at least in the writer's experience, and I was left wondering if the owners would really prefer to be a restaurant selling beer as opposed to a pub offering food. On the plus side there is usually at least home-brewed bitter available, plus guests from breweries such as Adnams and Sharps.

The Holly Bush - Exterior and Interior
photographs by Kim Rennie

A short walk along Holly Mount took us to the Holly Bush, one of Hampstead's most famous pubs. This is both Grade II listed and on the London Regional Inventory (LRI), and deservedly so. With an exterior finished in painted stucco, parts of the building date back to c.1797. Despite the inevitable alterations over time, and even in recent years, the Victorian bar-back and counter survive as do some elements of screen-work and etched glass. The predominately dark colours used for interior decoration and low lighting level help evoke an 'Olde World' atmosphere, as do the various separate drinking areas which still remain, some rather newer than others given the progressive expansion to the rear. Of particular note is the so-called 'coffee room' on the left with its fixed bench seating. The exterior livery still bears allegiance to Benskins' Brewery but the actual beers available were Adnams Bitter and Broadside, Fuller's London Pride and Harvey's Sussex Bitter.

Just prior to our departure, the staff presented our table with some free nibbles. Whether this is normal practice or an attempt to make us linger was unclear, and in the event unsuccessful, as we had to move on to the Flask. Traversing the picturesque stairs leading to Heath Street, the route took us past the remains of two former Hampstead pubs. The erstwhile McMullen's Nag's Head at number 79 had once been the Cruel Sea theme pub and was also the subject of the ill-fated CAMRA Investments pub-owning experiment. Almost opposite at number 68 was a more recent casualty, the Horse & Groom. This was Hampstead's 'other' Young's pub, but always seemed to live in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbour. It has now closed and been converted to a restaurant but, despite this, the old name sign on the upper storey is still on display.

The Flask - Interior and Painted Screen
photographs by Kim Rennie

The Flask stands, appropriately, in Flask Walk and, like the Holly Bush, is Grade II and LRI-listed. The pub was rebuilt in 1874 and what makes it special today is the full-height timber and glass screen that divides the front two bars. On the saloon bar side are five delightfully sentimental paintings, perhaps added later, and signed by Jan Van Beers. A bit of research has since revealed the following: "At the Brussels Salon of 1881, a scandal broke out over two entries by Jan Van Beers (1852-1927), a promising Belgian artist who had been living and working in Paris for some time. The scandal centred on the accusation made by three art critics that Van Beers's canvases were mere overpainted photographs or had at least, in some way or another, been made with the help of photographic means". The paintings in the Flask certainly have a photographic quality about them.

A surviving etched window reveals that there was once a small private bar on the left, which has been subsequently joined to the public bar. Other features still in situ include mahogany and glass partitions, bar fittings and counter; cast-iron fireplaces with tiled surrounds and moulded cornices. When the rear of the premises was extended in 1990 to provide a conservatory dining area, a brick vaulted cellar was discovered. Evidence of the Wells-Young's link-up was the presence of Charles Wells' Bombardier in addition to the usual Young's 'Ordinary' and Special.

Leaving the pub we turned right into New End Square and then along Willow Road. This next leg of the crawl was the longest distance between pubs. En-route participants were invited to observe numbers 1, 2 & 3 Willow Road, designed in 1938 by the noted modernist architect Erno Goldfinger and now owned by the National Trust. We also glimpsed the Freemasons' Arms in Downshire Hill which has a London Skittles alley. When Charrington's were planning to rebuild the pub in the 1930s, the locals sent a petition of protest to Hampstead Council. This included the signatories' occupations, but instead of the usual upper middle-class professions found in other areas of the capital, this list was crowded by those describing themselves as painters, sculptors, playwrights, lino-cutters, poets and lithographers etc!

The Magdala - Interior
photograph by Kim Rennie

Just off the junction of South End Road at 2a South Hill Park is the Magdala, named after the 1868 battle of the same name. This involved British and Ethiopian forces, with Sir Charles Napier commanding the British and the Ethiopians under Emperor Tewodros II. The British won the battle, after which Tewodros committed suicide. Previously, the moderniser Tewodros had realised the importance of powerful weapons and asked Britain for assistance in making cannons. When this was refused, he kidnapped a group of 60 European diplomats and missionaries and instructed them to build a cannon for him, prompting Britain to mount an expedition to Ethiopia using British and Indian troops. Napier was subsequently created 1st Baron Napier of Magdala and was also remembered in the Lord Napier in Goodmayes and Napier Arms in Woodford.

Although the fabric of the Magdala is mid-Victorian, it later underwent a thorough mid-30s modernisation including buff ground floor exterior tiling and attractive green and clear glass leaded windows. These are absolutely typical of former Charrington's pubs and can be found all over the capital, albeit in steadily declining numbers. In some cases, horizontal sections sometimes carried the brewery's name or other lettering, whilst oval-shaped pieces of glass often bore the company's trademark toby jug symbol. Some of these decorated panes in pubs appear to have been replaced by plain glass under Bass Charrington's ownership, perhaps during 'modernisation'. Certainly many others have gone since; though it may be possible that others were never lettered in the first place and were blank from new (for the record, the Cooper's Arms in Kilburn High Road still has an exceptional set of such lettered glass).

Most of the pub now has a dull modern look, but on the right is a pleasant and remarkably intact room from the 1930s. Walls are elegantly wood-panelled to half height, above which is low-key Art Deco frieze. The counter is panelled in the style of the walls and the picture is completed by a Tudor-style pink marble fireplace. Beerwise, the Magdala was offering Greene King IPA and Fuller's London Pride.

Of course the Magdala's main claim to fame nowadays is for being where Ruth Ellis shot her abusive lover, David Blakely, on Easter Sunday 1955. For many years it was claimed that bullet holes were still visible on the exterior tiling but other sources have since suggested that these were actually 'improved' or even created by a former landlord keen to cash in on the notoriety. The present owners acknowledge the event in a restrained way in the form of a framed newspaper cutting.

From the Magdala it was a short walk past Hampstead Heath station to our penultimate port-of-call, the Garden Gate at 14 South End Road. This classic example of Brewers' Tudor was appropriately named the Railway Tavern until 1999 and was described in the first edition of the North London Beer Guide as having a "typical and unspoilt Charrington interior with leaded glass windows and wood panelling". Sadly only a fraction of this is still extant. That which does remain includes some good wooden panelling in one area, original wooden parquet flooring, two door lobbies and fragments of the former coloured window glass. On handpump were Greene King ('Morland's') Old Speckled Hen (which ran out during our arrival!), Greene King IPA and the seemingly ubiquitous London Pride.

The White Horse - Interior and Ceiling
photographs by Kim Rennie

After leaving the Garden Gate, South End Road and Fleet Road took us to the apex of Constantine and Fleet Roads and the White Horse. Rebuilt in 1904, this has some impressive ironwork, two door lobbies, a carved mirrored wooden island bar-back with built-in clock and extravagant iron lampholders. But what really sets this place apart is the striking geometric and floral patterned enamelled sectioned ceiling, which must be unique. A small amount of stained, cut and etched glass also survives and, as always, gave us a glimpse of what must have been lost. Although the White Horse was once owned by Grand Met-Watney, today's real ales usually consist of Courage Best and Charles Wells' Bombardier. This was the last pub on our itinerary and proved a worthy conclusion to another successful LPG tour. Next time, why not join us?

Kim Rennie.

12 noon North London Tavern, 375 Kilburn High Road, NW6. Although its stained glass windows depicting railway engines have disappeared, this pub retains panelling; etched, cut and gilded glass; and a dado frieze in the former billiard room (now the restaurant) which has jazzy stained glass in the skylight and a fine wooden fireplace. The island bar has survived but, sadly, not the bar-back. Regular rotating beers include Adnams Broadside, Caledonian Deuchars IPA, Charles Wells Bombardier, Harveys Sussex Bitter, and Timothy Taylor Landlord. On leaving the pub, turn right down Kilburn High Road then cross over the High Road to

The Black Lion, NW6

12.45 pm Black Lion, 274 Kilburn High Road, NW6. This pub is a grade II* listed building. It is also on CAMRA's London Regional Inventory of Pub Interiors of Special Historic Interest and the description is as follows: "Built in 1898 (architect R. A. Lewcock), this pub has particularly spectacular interior décor - rich ceiling, very deep decorative cornice and copper relief panels by F. A. Callcott depicting 18th-century characters out enjoying themselves. Original bar counter, island bar-back and a screen partition. Some original etched and cut glass. Large, former billiard room on the right. Refurbished in 2003 when the screen was moved through 90 degrees". Adnams Broadside is usually available. Walk to the nearest bus stop and catch a 16 bus to the stop just after the junction of Maida Vale and Carlton Hill. Alight from the bus and walk up Carlton Hill to the junction with Greville Road. Cross over Carlton Hill and walk down Greville Road to the junction with Clifton Hill. Cross over Greville Road and walk down Clifton Hill to

2.00 pm Clifton, 96 Clifton Hill, NW8. This pub is also on the London Regional Inventory and the description is as follows: "Looking like a detached house, with front and rear gardens, in a residential street. Curious passage-like bar between the frontage and the servery. Plain panelled counter base with glazed screenwork above. On the opposite side of the servery the counter supports a most fantastic screen with triple opening and extraordinarily florid High Victorian detail. It is improbably said to have come from a chapel; more likely to have been the bar-back in another public house". Beers usually include Adnams Bitter, Fullers Discovery and London Pride, and Greene King IPA. Retrace your steps to Maida Vale, cross over Maida Vale and walk down Carlton Vale almost to the junction with Kilburn Park Road. Cross over Carlton Vale to

2.45 pm Carlton Tavern, 33a Carlton Vale, NW6. This pub has recently been entered on the London Regional Inventory and the description is as follows: "An elegant piece of building by Charringtons about 1930 with attractive advertising fascias including one (down the side) on the 'CARLTON LUNCHEON AND TEA ROOM'. Large, plain public bar on the right, connected by a doorway to a smaller room on the right. This has an attractive plasterwork with floral friezes and emblems of oak, roses and thistles on the ceiling. The single storey luncheon room behind also has some plaster decoration in the ceiling and hefty tie-beam timbering to the roof. Original bar counters and bar-backs in all three rooms. Two nice patterned mirrors in the front pair of rooms and an original fireplace in the corner room. Sadly much of the original window glass has been replaced". Beers usually available are Bass and Young's Special. Turn left out of the pub and continue along Carlton Vale to the junction with Kilburn Park Road. Walk to the bus stop and catch a 6, 31 or 328 bus to just before the junction of Kilburn Park Road and Shirland Road. Cross over Kilburn Park Road and walk up Shirland Road to

The Chippenham, W9

3.30 pm Chippenham, 207 Shirland Road, W9. This pub is also on the London Regional Inventory and the description is as follows: "A shadow of its former, late Victorian self but retaining some superb full-height tiling and, in the larger room, some huge built-in mirrors bearing the lettering 'J. Higgs, Builder and Fitter Upper Park Place N.W.'. The tiles have unusual motifs of pairs of birds and pomegranates: nice tiled alcove. Good ironwork with the name of the pub over the Shirland Road entrance". Occasionally this pub serves Woodforde's Wherry but it is a bit of a lottery and very often there is no real ale. On leaving the pub, cross over Shirland Road to the bus stop and catch a 31, 36 or 328 bus to the junction of Elgin Avenue and Chippenham Road. Cross over Elgin Avenue and Chippenham Road to

The Skiddaw, W9

4 pm Skiddaw, 46 Chippenham Road, W9. Like the Carlton Tavern earlier on the crawl, this pub has recently been entered on the London Regional Inventory and the description is as follows: "A tall Victorian street-corner pub. The refurbishment in 2005 retained important old features such as a peninsular-style counter and some excellent work inside the Chippenham Road entrance: mosaic floor in the lobby, strips of mirror and floral tile on the walls, two doorways with glass marked 'Saloon' and a room behind lined with mahogany panelling. The three panels of rather crude stained glass including a girl strumming a lyre are evidently not in situ". Young's Bitter is usually available here. On leaving the pub, cross over Chippenham Road and walk down Elgin Avenue to the junction with Shirland Road. Cross over Shirland Road and turn right down Shirland Road to the bus stop. Catch a 6, 187 or 414 bus to the junction of Warwick Avenue and Clifton Gardens. Cross over Clifton Gardens and walk along Warwick Avenue to the junction with Warwick Place. Turn right into Warwick Place and continue along it to

5 pm Warwick Castle, 6 Warwick Place, W9. This grade II listed pub is also on the London Regional Inventory and the description is as follows: "Despite some modernisation, there are still many Victorian features - stained and etched glass, bar counter, quite a lot of the panelling, friezes in the main bar and a lovely black and white marble fire surround in the second room. Splendid iron lamp bracket outside". Beers usually available include Charles Wells Bombardier, Fuller's London Pride and Greene King IPA. Retrace your steps to the junction of Warwick Avenue and Clifton Gardens, cross over Warwick Avenue and Clifton Gardens and walk up Warrington Crescent to the junction with Formosa Street. Cross over Warrington Crescent and walk down Formosa Street to

5.45 pm Prince Alfred, 5a Formosa Street, W9. Statutorily listed grade II, this pub is not only on the London Regional Inventory but also on the National Inventory of Pub Interiors of Outstanding Historic Interest and the description is as follows: "Built c.1856 and refitted c.1898 in the great London pub boom. The front part is truly unique: no other pub has five separate compartments radiating off the servery and divided from one another by half-height timber and glass screens which have low service doors from one compartment to another. Snob screens in one compartment. Tall, richly decorated island bar-back and a further fitment against the back wall. Ornate ceiling from the original building. Magnificent curved windows with etched glass. All this has a wonderful, delicate, rococo feel to it. Tiled walls and mosaic floor to the right-hand entrance. A refit in 2001 transformed the character into a café-restaurant establishment with over-prominent kitchen and dining room, and totally inappropriate furnishings in the historic part: counter refronted at this time." As Young's have recently acquired this pub Young's Bitter is served. Retrace your steps to Warrington Crescent and continue along Warrington Crescent to just before the roundabout. Cross over Warrington Crescent to

6.30pm Warrington Hotel, 93 Warrington Crescent, W9. Like the Prince Alfred, this pub is listed grade II and on both the London Regional Inventory and the National Inventory. The description is as follows: "One of London's grandest pubs, built in the mid-19th century and refitted in glorious style c.1900. The main entrance with its tile-faced columns and mosaic floor gives a foretaste. Large room on right with curved marble-topped counter of high-quality, unusual design, marble fireplace and matching marble columns to a three-bay arcade which marches across the room. Rich Art Nouveau glass. Semi-circular canopy over servery and walls in the alcove with Art Nouveau paintings of 1965 of naked ladies, commemorating the over-imaginative idea that the place was a brothel. Generous staircase to an impressive upstairs landing and dining room with skylights, and very rich friezes. Round-arched, wooden wall arcading enclosing mirrors. The other room was clearly once divided into three as screens and roof markings show. The lowest status part has matchboard panelling, etched glass and a Bass mirror. Interesting high-level chequer-work glazed screens." Caledonian Deuchars IPA, Fuller's Discovery, London Pride and ESB, and Young's Special are usually served here.

If you wish, you could end your crawl by looking at the forlorn Crocker's Folly, 24 Aberdeen Place, NW8 which is on both the Regional and National Inventories. The description is as follows if only you could get inside: "Originally called the Crown this opulent pub was built in 1898-9 by C. H. Worley for Frank Crocker as a hotel-cum-pub. The main entrance leads to what was called the 'grand saloon', one of the most impressive pub rooms in London, complete with marble counter top and a magnificent marble fireplace. On the left the restaurant was originally a two-table billiard room. The single bar to the right used to be split up into several bars but the partitions have gone. Contrary to rumours of Crocker's suicide on the 'folly' and failure of his grand venture, this popular figure on the local pub scene died a natural death in 1904". It has been closed for several years now and appears to be rapidly deteriorating. It is a grade II* listed building and is on English Heritage's Buildings at Risk Register. To get there from the Warrington Hotel, turn right out of the pub and continue to the junction with Sutherland Avenue just beyond the roundabout. Turn right into Sutherland Avenue and continue along it, crossing both Randolph Avenue and Lanark Road until you reach Maida Vale. Cross over Maida Vale and catch a 16 or 98 bus to the junction of Edgware Road and Aberdeen Place. Walk along Aberdeen Place and Crocker's Folly is on the left-hand side.

Finally, very nearby is a new entry on the London Regional Inventory, the Richmond Arms, 1 Orchardson Street, NW8. The description is as follows: "Rebuilt in the 1920s to serve the adjacent developments of council flats. The main façade to Lyons Place has a central doorway to the private accommodation and two bars either side. The smaller one (right) has its original fireplace and pretty decorative frames on the walls: its detailing is mirrored in the bar counter and bar-back. Very similar treatment reappears in the front left-hand room which retains its fireplace and the vestiges of a screen to a third, rear room. All three rooms have their original counter and back fittings; the rear room still has its dumb waiter. The three original rooms, now all interconnected by the original arrangements, are easily understood". To get there, retrace your steps down Aberdeen Place to the junction with Lyons Place, turn left into Lyons Place and continue down it to the junction with Orchardson Street. Turn right into Orchardson Street and the pub is on the right-hand side. Unfortunately there is no real ale here.

Exterior and upstairs interior of the Golden Lion in Romford
photographs by Kim Rennie

First port of call was the Golden Lion in High Street, Romford, whose white-painted 19th-Century frontage conceals an interior dating back to the 16th Century. The ground floor bar has a low and beamed ceiling, whilst the upstairs is multi-roomed with a wealth of old timber set at crazy angles. The building is believed to have been a galleried coaching inn at one time and a small section of 1st floor window frame, now marooned within the expanded building's confines, was discovered during a renovation and left uncovered as a historical feature. Also of interest is the sloping weatherboarding and jetted upper storey on the east side. This is almost certainly the oldest secular building in Romford and is deservedly Grade II-listed. In an area where many pubs do not attract a large bitter-drinking clientele, it was gladdening to see so many real ales available - those at the time of our visit being Adnams' Broadside, Charles Well's Bombardier, Courage Best, Greene King IPA, Theakston Old Peculier and Young's Special. Despite us meeting up at 11:00 am on a hot day, and the likelihood that many of our pints would be "first out of the pipe" that morning, there were no complaints from any of us as to the quality of beer served.

A brisk walk through the town centre was required to reach our next destination. On the way, we paused to inspect the remains of the former Star in South Street, an inter-war 'improved' and streamlined pub probably of 1936 which seems to have been built in conjunction with the adjacent former Times Furnishing store. With the ground floor re-fronted, little of the original remains, but the discerning eye can still pick out a star motif on the side wall, plus what appear to be original metal railings at roof level.

The Wheatsheaf, Romford
photograph by Kim Rennie

Happily still in business is the Wheatsheaf in Wheatsheaf Road. Typical of thousands of English suburban pubs built to serve the expanding suburbs between the wars, as originally constructed it had the usual floor-plan of separate saloon and public bars divided by an off-sales department, and all three serviced from a single central bar. Just as typical is the way the former off-sales section has since been closed and knocked-through to enlarge one of the bars, though fortunately a 'saloon' and 'public' divide remains. The position and status of all three former rooms can be determined by the door glass lettering, including the odd use of the title "Off License" (sic), an error which has remained uncorrected for some 80-odd years! Another quirk is the way the saloon doors open into a loggia, or arcaded gallery, rather than directly into the room itself. The exterior is predominantly red brick together with some half-timbered black & white work on the 1st floor window bays. Examination of the counter in the saloon revealed that four handpumps had once been fitted, alas now a mere two clipped to the edge of the bar in modern fashion suffice, and for us it was a case of Greene King IPA or nothing. However, it was good to see this sort of pub continuing to sell the 'real stuff' against all the odds. The Wheatsheaf is listed on CAMRA's London Regional Inventory of Pub Interiors of Special Historic Interest (LRI).

Music room window at the Eastbrook in Dagenham
photograph by Kim Rennie

A ride on the 174 bus took us to the junction of Dagenham Road and Rainham Road South, where on the south-east corner stands the Eastbrook. Built in 1938 by G. A. Smith & Son, the exterior is perhaps unremarkable; the inside however is a different story, remaining almost entirely in pre-war condition. The small public bar, now called the Oak Bar (with no real ale) is decorated in a neo-Tudor effect including cased-in beams, fireplace and what appear to be the original metal lantern light fittings. One of the tables also seems to be contemporary, if so making it almost 70 years' old and a remarkable survivor. The pub's real glory is in the main saloon, or Walnut Bar, which offers Abbot Ale and Green King IPA. The choice of name is immediately apparent upon entry, with the entire room lined with walnut wood or veneer. Fluted wooden columns are used for decorative effect and the mirrored bar-back carries a wavy line art deco detail. To the left the room is divided by a hinged wooden screen glazed with frosted glass, which in turn leads to a larger function/music room situated at right angles. This too can be separated by yet another screen which folds concertina-style. The latter room also boasts a raised balustraded stage behind which are a delightful set of four stained-glass windows featuring musical instruments and other emblems. It is amazing that so much of this has remained untouched over the years and a tribute to the pub's successive owners. Indeed, the only substantial change has been the necessary recent conversion of one of the entrance lobbies into a 'disabled' toilet. Situated on the borders of the East London & City and South West Essex CAMRA branch areas, the Eastbrook's interior has perhaps been overlooked over the years. This state of affairs was justly rectified early in 2006 when it was recommended for immediate inclusion on CAMRA's National Inventory of Pub Interiors of Outstanding Historic Interest. The pub once followed the fashion of having an off licence which stood separate from the main building. Though no longer owned by the same concern, this is still in use and carries a stone plaque bearing the pub's name.

The Denmark Arms, E6
photograph by Kim Rennie

Another bus ride, this time by 103, to Dagenham East station, itself being of some interest as a 1931 example of LMS suburban station design. Served now by the District Line, it was by the latter we reached East Ham. Turning left upon leaving that station, a 10 minute walk down High Street North brought us to its junction with Barking Road and the Denmark Arms. This former Taylor Walker, and before that Ind Coope pub, is on a classic corner site, being situated diagonally opposite East Ham Town Hall. Grade II-listed and on the London Regional Inventory, the Denmark was constructed at the turn of the 19th Century and attributed to F. W. Ashton. Extended to the north in 1903 to the design of C. J. Dawson, his red brick and terracotta contrasts with the yellow brick of the original building. Dawson also remodeled the interior and added the grand pedimented entrance to the saloon bar. The pub's name was probably inspired by Princess Alexandra of Denmark who had married the Prince of Wales (the future Edward VII) in 1863 and became Queen in 1901. Some excellent friezes and ceramic glazed tiling (including an art nouveau-inspired rose pattern) remain inside as do vestiges of the original cut glass. The pub remained multi-roomed well into the 1980s and it is sad to think the opening out took place so recently. Allied certainly put some money into the place during the rebuild and the 1991 edition of the East London & City Beer Guide lists it as selling Ind Coope Burton Bitter and Tetley Bitter. Unfortunately the advent of a Wetherspoon's nearby took away much of the pub's real ale trade and the handpumps have now been removed.

Leaving the Denmark and its cosmopolitan mix of customers, we walked west along Barking Road to the green-tiled Central Hotel. Built to serve the once affluent Central Park Estate developed to the south in the 1890s, this Victorian corner local still has three rooms, one of which can only be accessed from the long side bar and has a skylight indicating original use as a billiard hall. All three bars abut a single servery and much of the original counter and bar-back remains, albeit spoilt by the almost obligatory modern addition of gantries for glasses. The ELAC Guide showed the pub as having the same beer range as the Denmark, but once more we found that real ale was no longer available. In this case the beer engines have remained, albeit disused and with pumpclips reversed. When asked when real ale was last served, the barmaid became extremely consternated and agitated and was only able to answer "You'll have to ask the guv'nor, I'm only new here…" as if she was being asked to give away state secrets!

The Skylight at the Boleyn, E6
photograph by Kim Rennie

Leaving the keg-only Central Hotel, we continued along the Barking Road to the Boleyn, another one of London's finest pub interiors and built c.1899 by H. W. Rising of the architectural partnership Shoebridge & Rising in Free Renaissance style. The pair worked extensively for the Cannon Brewery and among their other London pubs are the Crown, Cricklewood (1899); Great Northern Railway Tavern, Hornsey (1897); Red Lion, Whitehall (c.1896); Rising Sun, Euston Road (1899) and William VI, Leyton High Street(1897). Although subject to the inevitable alterations over the years, much of the original dark wood and etched glass survives, albeit with some opening out and the moving of certain screens. Two coloured glass and leaded skylights remain, the larger of which once illuminated the billiard hall and still sits over a pool table. This is a truly magnificent work with a floral design incorporating elements of the Arts & Crafts Movement and has to be seen to be believed. As regards the beer situation, guess what? It was the same dismal story here as at the Central and Denmark, with beers from the old Allied stable having long disappeared and even the handpumps being ripped out.

By now in need of some real refreshment, and notwithstanding the Boleyn's finery, it was with some relief we processed to Upton Park station, thence via the District Line to Aldgate East. At the latter station, we observed the classic London Transport 'New Works' biscuit-coloured tiling on the platforms, complete with the occasional single decorative tile by Harold Stabler. One design featured the Crystal Palace, which had actually burnt down two years' before the tiles were fitted! All these are destined to be disappear however since an application for listing by English Heritage has been turned down.

Leaving by the station's eastern exit, two successive left turns took us into Osborn Street and then Brick Lane-proper. Just before the famous church/synagogue/mosque is Heneage Street and the rightly-named Pride of Spitalfields. This tiny free house has long been a favourite amongst CAMRA members and after three 'fizz' pubs in a row was all the more welcome a sight to us! The pub offers a varied range of real ales; those on offer during our visit being Crouch Vale Brewers Gold, Fuller's ESB, Fuller's London Pride and Sharp's Cornish Coaster. Unfortunately, we had coincided with a World Cup match and the deployment of a 'big screen' inside meant that the pub's lights had been dimmed considerably. Rather than flounder about in the dark, we elected to drink outside. The Pride has a 20th Century frontage which conceals an earlier building and was once owned by the White Lion Brewery. It later came under Ind Coope control and was named the Romford Arms for a time. Even today, the sign on the gents' door is lettered in a pure-1970s Allied Brewery typeface!

Departing with some reluctance, the Georgian townhouse-lined Fournier Street led us to the LRI and Grade II-listed Ten Bells. This pub retains some exceptional tiling, including lively 18th-Century London street scenes by W. B. Simpson & Son, a firm which supplied many of the capital's pubs c.1900. This place courted some notoriety from 1976 to 1988 when named the 'Jack the Ripper', but nowadays trendies outnumber tourists. The pub does actually have a genuine connection with the 1888 Whitechapel Murders but the present owners have chosen not to cash in on this. Thus the list of victims that once 'graced' the wall has gone and one can no longer order a 'Ripper's Tipple'. Again the World Cup had intervened to thwart us here, with yet another 'big screen' lowered, and this time right over the tiled panels we'd come to see! Coupled with the sight of the pumpclips reversed, tour leader Jane Jephcote made an 'executive decision' that we decamp en masse to our intended final stop, the Golden Heart in Commercial Street.

The Golden Heart, E1
photograph by Kim Rennie

This Golden Heart is a classic example of the neo-Georgian style produced by Truman's in-house architect A. E. Sewell during the 1930s. Among the typical features are the red brick exterior, Georgian windows, leaded glass and a characteristic stone panel bearing the pub's name and Truman eagle motif. A probable later addition is the huge 'Truman's' sign at roof level which was once illuminated in neon at night. Inside are two separate wood-panelled bars, four fireplaces (three of which carry the Truman eagle) and some original fixed seating. A blocked central entrance door suggests that a small private bar or snug existed at one time. Another Truman touch is the names of long-vanished beers inscribed in gold on the internal panelling at picture rail height. The pub was extremely busy for a Saturday early evening and it seems the whole area around Spitalfields Market is being 'trendified' by an overspill from Hoxton. The pub sells both Adnams' Bitter and Broadside and is on the LRI.

Ceiling at the Gun, E1
photograph by Kim Rennie

Given that we'd missed out on the Ten Bells, Jane suggested the nearby Gun in Brushfield Street as a 'supplementary' addition to finish. Another ex-Truman pub, it is almost certainly also the work of A. E. Sewell; the giveaway being the red brick neo-Georgian design and, more importantly, one his 'signatures', a ceiling decorated with white vitriolite squares edged in varnished wood. This is a typical Sewell touch which can also be seen at his Rose & Crown in Stoke Newington Church Street. The Truman's inter-war style is so distinctive that he must have contributed to numerous pubs in London, among those known being the Army & Navy, Matthias Road N16; Good Samaritan (1937), Turner Street E1; Royal Oak (1925), Columbia Road E2; Sun, London Road, Romford and the huge neo-Tudor Railway Hotel (1931) in Edgware. Beers on handpump in the Gun were Adnams' Broadside, Charles Well's Bombardier, Courage Best and Young's Bitter.

The Gun brought the tour to a formal end, and the group dispersed their various ways. In all, this had been a most interesting crawl taking in some of the finest remaining pub design in Greater London. Sadly not every pub had been blessed with real ale, and many had much of their detail obscured by tacky England FA-themed advertising paraphernalia, but at least these interiors still survive in the 21st Century for us to visit and enjoy.

Kim Rennie.

The crawl started at the Prince of Wales, Princedale Road, W11, then included the Elgin, 96 Ladbroke Grove, W11, Cock and Bottle, 17 Needham Rd, W11, Windsor Castle, 114 Campden Hill Rd, W8, Churchill Arms, 119 Kensington Church Street, W8, Mitre, 24 Craven Terrace, W2, and Victoria, 10a Strathearn Place, W2.

A full account of this crawl will be available in the near future. In the meantime here are some photos of two of the pubs included in the crawl. Many thanks to Mark Hoile for providing these.

Elgin - Interior and Group Photo
photographs by Mark Hoile

Cock & Bottle - Exterior
photograph by Mark Hoile

It was cold, crisp and clear as we gathered at the Tabard, 2 Bath Road, W4 at midday on Saturday 19 February. It looked as if National Pubs Week was getting off to a promising start both weather-wise and architecturally. The Tabard is a grade II* listed building and is on CAMRA's London Regional Inventory of Pub Interiors of Special Historic Interest. Built in 1880 to a design of the famous architect, Norman Shaw, it is one of the landmark buildings of the elegant Bedford Park garden suburb. The pub has been refurbished in recent times but in a sensitive manner, reflecting the Arts and Crafts style of the building. Some of the original wall tiles by William de Morgan remain as does some of the wall panelling. Three or four real ales were available.

Interior of the Tabard
photo taken by Kim Rennie 2005

On leaving the Tabard we proceeded down Turnham Green Terrace, crossed over Chiswick High Road and walked down Devonshire Road to the Devonshire House (formerly the Manor Tavern), 126 Devonshire Road which we reached at about 1 o'clock. This is one of several pubs on the crawl designed by the architect Thomas Henry Nowell Parr, in this case for the Royal Brewery, Brentford. Nowell Parr was born in Handsworth, West Midlands in 1864. He started his career as an architectural assistant in Walsall Corporation Architects' Department (1890 - 1894) and then moved to Middlesex to work in Brentford Urban District Council (UDC) Architects' Department from 1894 to 1897. From 1897 to 1907 he was Architect, Engineer and Surveyor to Brentford UDC and, while retaining this post, he set up his own architectural practice in 1900. Among his designs for Brentford UDC is Brentford Library, built in 1903 and opened on 9 May 1904 by the American millionaire philanthropist, Andrew Carnegie who had donated £5,000 to the cost of the building. In the same year (1904) a Boatmen's Institute was built for the London City Mission to Nowell Parr's design on the Grand Union Canal at Brentford - it is now a private house. He also undertook commissions from Fuller's and, as mentioned above, the Royal Brewery, Brentford with the Three Horseshoes, Southall and the Forester, West Ealing among his other pubs. Nowell Parr's son, John Nowell Parr (died 1975) joined the architectural practice at some point. In 1914 Thomas Henry Nowell Parr moved from 42 Cranley Gardens, South Kensington to 52 Kew Bridge Road, Brentford which is very near the last pub on our crawl, the Express Tavern. In 1925 he became a Fellow of the Royal Institute of British Architects. He died on 23 September 1933. Even though the Devonshire House has had partitions removed, this pub, built in 1924, retains its original panelling, beamed ceilings, Tudor archways (a favourite Nowell Parr touch), fireplaces, bar counters and bar-back bearing the word "COURAGE". Other original signage remains also, including a "Gentlemen" arrow sign in the smaller bar area, and an illuminated sign saying "THE MANOR TAVERN" on the bar-back in the larger bar area. We ate lunch while taking in all these details but unfortunately no real ale is served in this rather smart upmarket pub.

Devonshire House - Archway and Public Bar
photos taken by Kim Rennie 2005

We didn't have far to go to our next pub which was almost opposite - the Duke of York, 107 Devonshire Road, W4. This is another pub designed by Nowell Parr, this time for Fuller's. Dating from 1926 it retains its original door lobbies, wall panelling, bar counters, bar-backs and tell-tale Tudor arches. However, unlike the more spartan Devonshire House visited previously, a nasty modern gantry has been introduced in one of the bars which spoils the effect of the servery area. We were pleased to be able to choose from the three available Fuller's ales - Chiswick, London Pride and ESB.

Duke of York - Exterior and Bar Counter
photos taken by Kim Rennie 2005

The walk to the next pub on the crawl was rather longer. We returned to Chiswick High Road, noting with regret the splendid exterior of the recently closed, grade II listed Youngs pub, the Crown and Anchor, 374 Chiswick High Road. Further along the High Road we arrived, a little later than our scheduled time of 3 o'clock, at the Old Pack Horse, 434, Chiswick High Road, W4. This grade II listed pub is another designed for Fuller's, this time in 1910, by Nowell Parr. Again we noted his distinctive Tudor archways. The fairly lavish original fittings include etched and stained glazing, wood and stained glass partitions in an Art Nouveau style, saloon bar-back and clock. There is also a pleasing fireplace, which may be original, in an alcove. Here we were treated to a full range of Fuller's ales. One of our party was asked by some of the pub regulars if we were a delegation from the Olympic Committee!

Old Pack Horse
photo taken by Kim Rennie 2005

Fortified by the beers we continued down Chiswick High Road then walked along Sutton Lane North and finally Wellesley Road to the Pilot, 56 Wellesley Road, W4. Although this pub retains little, if any, of its original interior, we were able to compare its refurbishment with that of the Devonshire House visited earlier on the crawl. Two or three real ales were available and we counted ourselves very lucky as we reached the pub just before a snow shower began. On the way to the Pilot, some of us made a detour to visit another pub which appears to have been designed by Nowell Parr - the Hole in the Wall, 12 Sutton Lane, W4. The main tell-tale features in this recently refurbished pub are its beamed ceilings and Tudor archways.

Piolet (exterior) and Hole in the Wall (interior)
photos taken by Kim Rennie 2005

We waited in the Pilot for the snow shower to subside before continuing our crawl. We then walked along Wellesley Road and Chiswick High Road to Kew Bridge Road where we arrived at the Waggon and Horses, 26 Kew Bridge Road, TW8 behind schedule at about 6 o'clock. This Fuller's pub had Chiswick, London Pride and ESB on sale and served as a handy stop while waiting for the last pub on the crawl to open at 6.30 pm.

The final pub, on the other side of Kew Bridge Road from the Waggon and Horses was the Express Tavern, 56 Kew Bridge Road, TW8. It is on the London Regional Inventory and has a Victorian bar-back which is said to have been imported from somewhere else in the 1920s. Despite refurbishment in 1994 the Express retains much of its original atmosphere. The rear room was brought into use in the 1930s and has "brewer's Tudor" fittings. There were three or four real ales available including Youngs Bitter and Battersea Bitter. This was a wonderful finale to what had been an extremely interesting and enjoyable crawl. Let's drink to Thomas Henry Nowell Parr!

Unlike nearly all London Pubs Group crawls in the last two years, the weather was not fine on this occasion. We met at 11.15 am in the Gorringe Park, 29 London Road, SW17 on Saturday 16 October. Built in about 1875 this two-roomed Youngs pub is on the London Regional Inventory of Pub Interiors of Special Historic Interest as were all the pubs on this crawl. Among its remaining interior fixtures are a cast iron fire surround, wooden matchboard panelling in the front bar and fielded wooden panelling in the rear room dating from the 1940s. The Youngs ales were in good condition.

On leaving the Gorringe Park some of us rather unwisely decided to take the 355 bus while others decided to walk to the next pub which was the King's Head, 84 Upper Tooting Road, SW17. This magnificent pub dating from 1896 and designed by pub architect, W M Brutton is a grade II listed building. Some of its partitions have gone but the interior is still a feast of late Victorian glass, woodwork and tilework. Those who had sensibly chosen to walk to the King's Head were rewarded with a choice of Deuchar's IPA as well as the regular ales (Fuller's London Pride and Charles Wells Bombardier).

Interior of the Prince of Wales
photo taken by Bob Steel in 2003

As a result of the lateness of the 355 bus and the partaking of lunch, some of us left the King's Head rather later than scheduled but several of our number managed to keep to the timetable thus reaching the next pub by 1.30 pm by means of catching two buses. This Youngs pub, the Prince of Wales, 646 Garratt Lane, SW17 was rebuilt in 1898 and retains the bar counter, bar-back, porch, mosaic floor, ceiling, partition and the billiard room fireplace from this era. The other fireplaces, the exterior buff tiles and the porch tiling date from an inter-war refurbishment. It was, however, rather difficult to see some of these features as the pub was packed with people watching football on the TV. Youngs ales were available.

Meal Room in the Country House
photo taken by Bob Steel in 2003

Yet another bus ride took us to Earlsfield Station and Jack Beard's in the Fog, 2 Groton Road, SW18 (formerly called the Country House). Its present name refers to its nickname, the Fog, which some say is what commuters coming home via Earlsfield Station from central London called the pub as an excuse for getting home late as in "Sorry I'm late - I was caught in the fog". The interior of this Victorian pub is a good example of a fairly intact interwar refit as evidenced by the wooden panelling, bar counter, bar-back and fire surrounds. Beers available usually include Youngs Bitter.

Spread Eagle
photo taken by Bob Steel in 2003

We then caught a bus to the Spread Eagle, 71 Wandsworth High Street, SW18. A Youngs pub almost opposite Youngs Brewery, the Spread Eagle was the second grade II listed building on our crawl. Rebuilt in 1898 on the site of an older pub, it is very spacious. Its mirrored bar-back and the screens between the rooms are splendid. Many people do not realise, however, that the cast iron canopy outside is modern. As might be expected, Youngs ales were served and were on good form.

A bus to Wandsworth Town Station took us to opposite the next pub on the crawl, the Alma, 499 Old York Road, SW18, another Youngs pub. It is the most modernised of the SW18 pubs which are included on the London Regional Inventory but it retains some wonderful fittings including painted mirrors depicting birds, mosaic medallions, an alcoved fireplace and a pretty plaster frieze in the former billiard room. The Youngs ales we tried there were in good condition.

Stained Glass Panel in the Falcon
photo taken by Bob Steel in 2003

On leaving the Alma we crossed back over Old York Road to Wandsworth Town Station and caught a train to Clapham Junction which is very near the final pub on the crawl, the Falcon, 2 St John's Hill, SW11. As with the Prince of Wales earlier, we were somewhat prevented from fully taking in the impressive interior fittings of this grade II listed pub dating from 1887 which include a very large wooden servery with etched glass mirrors in the bar-back, wooden wall panelling and stained glass panels. However, some of us managed to squeeze into the snug at the front near one of the stained glass panels which depicts a falcon. Adnam's Bitter was available.

Despite the disappointing weather on the day, this crawl demonstrated the variety of historic interiors to be found in the Regional Inventory pubs in this part of south west London.

The Lamb, Leadenhall Market
photograph by Mark Hoile

It was very warm when, on Monday 2 August, the eve of CAMRA's Great British Beer Festival (GBBF), we met at the Lamb Tavern, 10-12 Leadenhall Market, EC3 at the start of an evening crawl of historic pubs on both sides of the Thames. The Lamb, a Young's pub, is a Leadenhall Market landmark and, although not on the London Regional Inventory, it is a grade II listed building. It has several floors and a jolly tiled mural in the entrance corridor. The choice of Young's Bitter, Special and Waggledance went down very well in such a setting.

On this crawl our numbers were augmented by CAMRA members who were in London to work at the GBBF. In anticipation of this and to minimise crowding, a longer version of the crawl was handed out on the day which included several extra pubs to visit. The first of these was the Swan, Ship Tavern Passage, 78 Gracechurch St, EC3, a Fuller's pub on two floors. One can watch busy city workers through the top-floor windows while sipping Fuller's Chiswick, London Pride or ESB.

The next of these "extra" pubs was the Crosse Keys, 7-12 Gracechurch Street, EC3, a vast Wetherspoons pub which used to be a branch of Barclays Bank. One of the best parts of this grade II listed building is an elegant separate wood-panelled room at the rear.

Those with enough time, money and capacity also visited another suggested "extra" pub, the grade II listed Counting House, 50 Cornhill, EC3. This sumptuous Fuller's pub, formerly a branch of the National Westminster Bank, boasts a huge glass-domed ceiling.

The Jamaica Wine House (or 'Jam Pot'), St. Michaels Alley, Cornhill, EC3 was the first Regional Inventory pub we visited on this crawl. This red sandstone-faced building is also listed at grade II. It was built in 1885 to designs by the architect Banister Fletcher. The original bar counter remains as does some of the original four-part layout. Beers available included Marston's Pedigree, Wells Bombardier and a house ale called Bloomsbury brewed by Scottish and Newcastle.

We then crossed over the Thames to Southwark where some made a detour to another "extra" pub, the Shipwrights Arms, 88 Tooley Street, SE1. This grade II listed pub is on the London Regional Inventory and its most striking feature is a tiled panel in the former entrance lobby depicting workers on and beside the River Thames in busier days. Two or three real ales are generally available here but sadly it appears no longer to be an outlet for beers from the Titanic Brewery.

The Market Porter, 9 Stoney Street, SE1 was the next suggested "extra" pub. Neither a listed building nor on the London Regional Inventory, it was chosen for its reputation for serving an ever-changing range of up to eight real ales and because of its proximity to the next pub on the crawl, the Wheatsheaf, 6 Stoney Street, SE1. Youngs acquired this grade II listed pub only a few years ago and it is also on the London Regional Inventory. It is still divided into two distinct areas by a glazed wooden screen. These two areas are identified by the words "Public Bar" and "Saloon" on the etched glass panels of their respective doors. Youngs usual range of beers (Bitter, Special and Waggle Dance) was available plus Smiles Bristol IPA.

Our next destination was the famous George Inn, George Inn Yard, 77 Borough High Street, SE1 which is owned by the National Trust. A grade I listed building, this 17th-century National Inventory pub is a very rare surviving example of a galleried inn. Two tiers of galleries can be seen from the courtyard at first and second floor level and inside the pub the bar at the west end retains old panelling, fireplace and bench seating. We took in the ancient atmosphere along with our beers from a selection which included Flowers Original, Fuller's London Pride, Greene King Abbot and a house beer brewed by Adnams.

Still hungry for heritage and refreshment we continued down Borough High Street and turned right along Marshalsea Road to another Regional Inventory pub, the Lord Clyde, 27 Clennam Street, SE1. Pausing outside first to admire the splendid glazed tiling, we entered this charming two-roomed 1913 building which retains some of its original etched glass, some tongue-and-groove panelling, the original bar counter and bar-back, and fireplaces. Back-room drinkers can still be served by means of a hatch, the beers available including Courage Best Bitter, Fuller's London Pride, Shepherd Neame Spitfire and Young's Bitter.

Our final destination for last orders was the Royal Oak, 44 Tabard Street, SE1 chosen not for heritage reasons but for the friendly hospitality of its host, Frank Taylor and its impressive range of Harvey's ales consistently served in excellent condition. This pub hosts the London Pubs Group's meetings and Frank himself is a great supporter of the Group and has a love and considerable knowledge of London's historic pubs. He had been forewarned of both our likely numbers and our late arrival and the welcome was as warm as ever - a wonderful conclusion to this epic crawl.

The sun was shining brightly through the etched windows of the King's Head, Market Place, Enfield, EN2 as we gathered at the start of our crawl of Enfield's historic pubs at 11.30 am on Saturday 19 June. This multi-roomed pub by the famous pub architects Shoebridge and Rising dates from 1899 and retains some original bar fittings, etched glass windows and doors, and a skylight in the back room which may have been a billiard room. Two real ales were on offer - Greene King IPA and Young's Ordinary. Most of us drank the latter which was on good form.

The King's Head, Market Place
photographs by Ronald Andrews

A short walk via pretty back streets brought us to the Stag, 1 Little Park Gardens, EN2. This inter-war pub retains several original fixtures and fittings including exterior glazing and doors, the bar-back and a glazed-in office. Beers available included Adnam's Bitter and Broadside and Greene King IPA. We didn't spend much time in this pub as our 12.32 pm 317 bus was due from opposite the pub. Unfortunately it never arrived and we had to wait for the 12.52 instead. Our luck seemed on the wane when, owing to extremely heavy traffic, the bus terminated early and dumped us at the retail park. Luckily another bus came along soon after and, after another traffic jam, we finally reached the stop just before Bullsmoor Lane where we alighted and, cutting through an estate under the leadership of Inky Hills, a long-standing member of the Enfield and Barnet branch, we reached the Pied Bull, Bulls Cross, EN2.

The Pied Bull is a charming rural 17th-century pub with several rooms but with divisions made transparent by means of leaving only skeletal wooden studding. It is a grade II listed building with a modern conservatory and a sunny back garden which came into its own as the weather was fine. Beers included Adnam's Bitter, Ringwood Fortyniner and Fuller's London Pride. This proved to be an excellent lunchtime stop as the pub has an extensive lunch menu.

The Pied Bull, Bulls Cross
photograph by Ronald Andrews

Suitably refreshed we braced ourselves for the fairly long walk along Whitewebbs Lane to the next pub, the King and Tinker, Whitewebbs Lane, EN2. The M25 is very near to this stretch of the crawl and the pub is on the edge of Whitewebbs Country Park. The King and Tinker is also a grade II listed building and is on the London Regional Inventory of Pub Interiors of Special Historic Interest, copies of which were available for purchase on the day. This old country pub was remodelled about 1930. It has three rooms with a bar counter running through all of them. The screen which would once have separated the two front rooms has been cut down. There is a fine dark stained timber fire surround in the front room bearing the emblems of England and Scotland and similar detailing in the bar-back. There are rustic ironwork details on the counter front and elsewhere. At least two real ales were available including Fuller's London Pride.

The King and Tinker, Whitewebbs Lane, and the Flash Road Aqueduct
photographs by Ronald Andrews

We were rather worried about the weather for the next leg of the crawl as a there had been a light shower while we were at the King and Tinker and the clouds to the north looked threatening. However, the weather stayed fine after all during our pretty walk through Whitewebbs Wood via the only scheduled monument on our crawl, Flash Road Aqueduct. The aqueduct was cast in iron in 1820 and once carried the New River over a small brook. It was in use until the 1850s and one can still see the iron flanges.

Eventually we reached the Fallow Buck, Clay Hill, EN2, a grade II listed weatherboarded 17th-century building whose original multi-roomed layout has now been partially opened up. As with the Pied Bull, one can see the remains of the partitions in the form of skeletal timber studding. Among the two or three beers on offer was Adnam's Broadside.

The Fallow Buck, Clay Hill, and the Rose and Crown, Clay Hill
photographs by Mark Hoile (Fallow Buck) and Ronald Andrews (Rose and Crown)

Leaving the Fallow Buck we went down Clay Hill to the Rose and Crown, Clay Hill, EN2. This was the last listed building on our crawl (grade II again). It dates from the 17th-century or earlier and is timber-framed with a rather chaotic two-floor interior layout. Like nearly all the pubs on the crawl the Rose and Crown has outdoor seating and at least two real ales were available.

Rural gave way to urban as we walked to the next pub, the Wonder, 1 Batley Road, EN2. This late Victorian pub is on the London Regional Inventory and still has two separate rooms and an inter-war brick fire surround in each room. Owned by McMullen's, this is a friendly community pub. We enjoyed the splendid McMullen's AK and Country bitters which were available.

The Wonder, 1 Batley Road, and the Old Wheatsheaf, 3 Windmill Hill
photographs by Mark Hoile

Our final destination was the creeper-covered Old Wheatsheaf, 3 Windmill Hill, EN2 almost opposite Enfield Chase Station. This two-roomed pub has a handsome bow-windowed frontage and retains some Art Nouveau details, mainly in the etched and leaded glass. The only vestige of the former off-sales is a door with "Bottles & Jugs" in the etched glazing. Among the real ales available was Adnam's Bitter.

Despite an unpromising forecast the weather remained fine throughout the day and the crawl offered an enjoyable variety of historic pubs both rural and urban.

This crawl took place on the fine, pleasant evening of Wednesday 14 April. We started at the Assembly House, 292-4 Kentish Town Road, NW5. This was full of people who were going to see the Scissor Sisters at the Forum that evening so it was difficult to get a feel for the interior of the pub as a whole. The Assembly House is a large grade II listed building and is on the London Regional Inventory. It has been opened out in recent years but it retains its magnificent etched glass and bar-back in the part adjacent to Leighton Road and a skylight in the former billiard room at the back. Greene King IPA and so-called Ruddles County were available that evening.

On leaving the Assembly House we walked up Leighton Road to the Gloucester Arms, 59 Leighton Road, NW5. This is an unassuming back-street local with a plain interior. Its public bar is completely separate and is usually locked, except for certain events. However, the friendly licensee unlocked it for us. The public bar's charm is its simplicity. It retains most of its inter war fittings including the wooden wall panelling and the bar counter. However, as in the saloon bar, all that remains of its former hand pumps are outlines in the surface of the bar counter so most of us drank Guinness. This pub is not on the London Regional Inventory.

Our next destination was a pub which is on the London Regional Inventory, the Pineapple, 51 Leverton Street, NW5, which was quite a cause celebre in 2001 when a good local campaign was launched to save the pub from being converted to residential flats. An emergency spot-listing at grade II and the purchase of the pub by an architect and his daughter saved it. A conservatory has been added at the rear of the pub but the front area retains its large Bass mirrors and its fine bar-back which has etched and gilt mirrors. The location of this Victorian corner pub in an attractive residential street added to the enjoyment of the visit as did the Adnam's bitter.

The last pub on our crawl, the Bull and Gate, 389 Kentish Town Road, NW5 was also full when we arrived as it was hosting live music. Fortunately, the gig started soon after our arrival so the crowd moved into the large back room. Though not on the London Regional Inventory, the Bull and Gate still has some original fittings including some of the glass in the bar-back and some stained glass windows and carved wooden detail in the arches over the doors. The only real ale available on this occasion was Bass but all agreed that it was on very good form and many of us thought it was the best beer we had had that evening.

To kick off National Pubs Week 2004 on Saturday 21 February London Pubs Group did a daytime crawl of pubs in south east London. We met at the Commercial, 212 Railton Road, Herne Hill, SE24. This pub has several surviving interwar features including wooden wall panelling, two separate rooms divided by a wooden glazed partition incorporating an office, and a bar counter with a chequer-board plinth. The exterior windows are all still intact. It is a shame that some of the panelling has been painted over.

After this we visited the Half Moon, 10 Half Moon Lane, Herne Hill, SE24. This grade II* listed building of 1896 is on CAMRA's National Inventory and boasts a lavish exterior. There would originally have been many rooms but there are now three. However, the counter and bar-back survive as does the panelling in the public bar. The pub's most remarkable survival is its snug on the left-hand side with its six back-painted mirrors depicting birds and signed by W. Gibbs of Blackfriars. In this room one can also see the holes in the counter where snob screens were once in place.

One of the painted mirrors in the snug at the Half Moon, Herne Hill
photograph by Chris Lewis
February 2004

Our next stop was the grade II-listed Crown and Greyhound, 73 Dulwich Village, Dulwich, SE24. This pub is on CAMRA's London Regional Inventory. Built c.1900, it has been much altered since then but many original features survive, such as the screens dividing up the left-hand front part. The main bar area originally comprised the saloon and a separate coffee room where meals would have been served. The restaurant used to be a billiard room and at the back, left, was a skittle alley.

We then proceeded to East Dulwich and the Crystal Palace Tavern, 193 Crystal Palace Road, SE22. Here we saw that the front bar area has been modernised but the back room retains some original fittings including the bar-back, bar counter and etched windows. Above the bar-back in this room there is a also an interesting curved wooden decorative feature with etched glass panels depicting birds and in the panelling behind the bar one can just make out the remains of advertisements for Double Diamond and Skol.

Our next destination was the Herne Tavern, 2 Forest Hill, SE22. This Good Beer Guide pub was quite a discovery - some of its interior fittings may date from the 1920s or earlier and it retains separation between some of its rooms. Among the (possibly) 1920s features are the bar counter and bar-back in the main bar area with its Tudor arch detail, stained glass windows and some charming chunky chairs in a rustic style.

From opposite the Herne Tavern we caught a bus to the next pub on the crawl, the Dulwich Wood House, 39 Sydenham Hill, SE26. The main interest here is the pub's continental villa-style exterior with its belvedere (a raised turret) and the excellent Young's beer, of course.

Our final destination was the Royal Albert, 42 Westow Hill, SE19 in Crystal Palace. This pub, which would once have had separate rooms, retains some of its original wall panelling (most of which has been painted over as in the Commercial) but otherwise the interior has been substantially altered. The two cast-iron(?) lamp-standard figures are another point of possible interest. They may have been 'imported' during a subsequent refit but they do have the old-fashioned small five-amp plugs - and wall sockets - which became obsolete from the 1960s, suggesting that they may have been there for quite some time.

To summarise, this was an interesting crawl taking in a variety of styles of pub interiors.