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The Day The Mash Tuns Died
by John Cryne
The comforting biscuity waft of the mash tun will no longer be something greeting
the good citizens of Wandsworth as they go about their daily travails, following
the decision of Young's to cease their brewing operations in the capital. This sad
day has been on the horizon for a few years following various schemes at both
local and regional government level to redevelop the site which Young's currently
occupy.
It seems a great shame that politicians and planners are unable to recognise the
benefits that can come from employing local people in something other than shops
and offices, in jobs which can appeal to people at many different levels. It’s a
shame that over 400 years of history seem to count for nothing in the greater
scheme of things. Indeed, the disregard that seems to be shown towards pubs and
breweries, and the benefit they bring to London's citizens, is indicated with
'Stop Press' news of the sad decision to allow the Oakdale Arms to be knocked down
and converted into residential accommodation (an earlier planning application
was rejected but the decision was overturned on appeal to the Secretary of State
- more news in the next edition).
Commercial, planning and economic factors are taking a fearful toll on our pubs
and breweries. While on nowhere near the same scale, the decision by Pitfield owner,
Martin Kemp, to move his brewing outside of London, is just another indication of
the problem. The whole way in which Pitfield Street's parking access had changed
since he started his business made it impossible for him to operate there.
And so Young's. The brewery that in London, in the 60s and 70s, seemed to stand
single-handedly against the march of processed beer has been obliged to call time.
The cessation of brewing will allow Wandsworth Council to undertake what is claimed
to be much-needed regeneration of Wandsworth town centre. The development will
incorporate some of the older brewery buildings, such as the Brewery Tap pub and
Young's working beam engines – among the oldest of their type in the world – as
well as some historic brewing equipment, all of which will remain on display to
the public.
But, at least there are some rays of sun on the horizon – Young's beers will survive,
as they enter into a joint brewing venture with Wells of Bedford – to be called
Wells and Young's. In the 1970s Wells had the foresight to leave their cramped town
centre site and build a brand new brewery on extensive run-down land at the east of
town. This site has given them plenty of room for expansion over the years.
Now that brewery will produce beers for both the Young's and Wells' estates. At the
same time, Young's is moving some of its specialist brewing equipment and members
of its brewing staff to Bedford, overseen by head brewer Ken Don, to ensure that its
beers will continue to match flavours and quality. Young's will remain a vertically
integrated brewery and hopefully the joint venture, through its size and scale,
will provide greater security to both family-owned companies.
The pubs will continue to be run by the two separate companies – Young's say that
negotiations for the brewery site are at an advanced stage and it is hoped that
part of the proceeds will be used to subscribe to shares in Wells & Young's.
The Young’s board will then be in a position to develop and increase its present
estate of 205 pubs.
Perhaps it is best to end with a comment from CAMRA's London Regional Director
Steve Williams, who said: "I am greatly disappointed that London and Wandsworth
will be losing their flagship brewery. Another great brewery that has produced fine
beers for hundreds of years is lost in the name of progress. However, looking
forward, I am hopeful that the Young's beers out of Bedford will prove to be as
tasty and first rate as those that have quenched the thirst of London's beer
drinkers for many years." Here’s hoping.
John Cryne, North London CAMRA Branch Chair
Reproduced from the Full Pint, Issue 36.
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